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A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear shallow water and deep water models is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water-wave equations, we reduce the problem to a system of two equations on…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2007-10-09 David Lannes , Philippe Bonneton

In order to improve the frequency dispersion effects of irrotational shallow water models in coastal oceanography, several full dispersion versions of classical models were formally derived in the literature. The idea, coming from G.…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2020-04-21 Louis Emerald

We derive the Whitham equations from the water waves equations in the shallow water regime using two different methods, thus obtaining a direct and rigorous link between these two models. The first one is based on the construction of…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2021-10-27 Louis Emerald

An explicit expression for the Dirichlet-Neumann operator for surface water waves is presented. For non-overturning waves, but without assuming small amplitudes, the formula is first derived in two dimensions, subsequently extrapolated in…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2022-11-09 Didier Clamond

We focus here on the water waves problem for uneven bottoms in the long-wave regime, on an unbounded two or three-dimensional domain. In order to derive asymptotic models for this problem, we consider two different regimes of bottom…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2008-12-05 Florent Chazel

In this paper, we consider a problem inspired by the real-world need to identify the topographical features of ocean basins. Specifically we consider the problem of estimating the bottom impermeable boundary to an inviscid, incompressible,…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2023-08-22 Vishal Vasan , Manisha , Didier Auroux

A new Hamiltonian formulation for the fully nonlinear water-wave problem over variable bathymetry is derived, using an exact, vertical series expansion of the velocity potential, in conjunction with Luke's variational principle. The…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-04-14 Christos Papoutsellis , Gerassimos Athanassoulis

A generalized version of the $abcd$-Boussinesq class of systems is derived to accommodate variable bottom topography in two-dimensional space. This extension allows for the conservation of suitable energy functionals in some cases and…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-06-19 Samer Israwi , Youssef Khalifeh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

We derive and analyze in the framework of the mild-slope approximation a new double-layer Boussinesq-type model which is linearly and nonlinearly accurate up to deep water. Assuming the flow to be irrotational, we formulate the problem in…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2009-07-01 Florent Chazel , Michel Benoit , Alexandre Ern , Serge Piperno

The present article is the third part of a series of papers devoted to the shallow water wave modelling. In this part, we investigate the derivation of some long wave models on a deformed sphere. We propose first a suitable for our purposes…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova

In this work we discuss an approximate model for the propagation of deep irrotational water waves, specifically the model obtained by keeping only quadratic nonlinearities in the water waves system under the Zakharov/Craig-Sulem…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2025-01-06 Vincent Duchêne , Benjamin Melinand

In this article we deal with a class of geometric inverse problem for bottom detection by one single measurement on the free surface in water--waves. We found upper and lower bounds for the size of the region enclosed between two different…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2020-12-02 R. Lecaros , J. López-Ríos , J. H. Ortega , S. Zamorano

Surface water waves are considered propagating over highly variable non-smooth topographies. For this three dimensional problem a Dirichlet-to-Neumann (DtN) operator is constructed reducing the numerical modeling and evolution to the two…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2018-05-23 David Andrade , André Nachbin

In this paper, we give the first rigorous justification of the Benjamin-Ono equation as an internal water wave model on the physical time scale. Let $\varepsilon$ be the small parameter measuring the weak nonlinearity of the waves, $\mu$ be…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2024-10-31 Martin Oen Paulsen

A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-11-09 Lili Fan , Ruonan Liu , Hongjun Gao

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2020-04-22 David Lannes

High-frequency wave propagation is often modelled by nonlinear Friedrichs systems where both the differential equation and the initial data contain the inverse of a small parameter $\varepsilon$, which causes oscillations with wavelengths…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2024-02-21 Julian Baumstark , Tobias Jahnke

In this paper, we review the history and current state-of-the-art in the modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review, we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

In the present study a mathematical model of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction with the effect of Earth's rotation is derived by following the formal asymptotic procedures. Such a model equation is analogous to…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2019-05-01 Guilong Gui , Yue Liu , Junwei Sun

This study develops a theoretical framework for modeling acoustic pulse propagation in a non-ideal shallow-water waveguide. We derive an {\epsilon}-pseudodifferential operator ({\epsilon}-PDO) formulation from the general three-dimensional…

数学物理 · 物理学 2025-12-16 Aleksandr Kaplun , Boris Katsnelson
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