相关论文: Anomalous waves triggered by abrupt depth changes:…

We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…

We adapt the microcanonical framework of equilibrium statistical mechanics to predict the statistics of short waves in inhomogeneous moving media. For steady inhomogeneities and background flow, we compute the wave spectrum at any location…

Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…

In this Letter, we experimentally investigate the collapse of initially dry granular media into water and the subsequent impulse waves. We systematically characterize the influence of the slope angle and the granular material on the initial…

Here we discuss some issues concerning the statistical properties of ocean surface waves. We show that, using the approach of weak turbulence theory, deviations from Gaussian statistics can be naturally included. In particular we discuss…

Shock waves are typical non-equilibrium phenomena in nature and engineering, driven by hydrodynamic non-equilibrium (HNE) and thermodynamic non-equilibrium (TNE) effects. However, the mechanisms underlying these non-equilibrium effects are…

In this paper, we study the nonlinear dispersive waves including the rarefaction and dispersive shock waves in the discrete modified KdV equation through the numerical simulations of the dispersive Riemann problems. In particular, we…

Periodic waves of the modified Korteweg-de Vries (mKdV) equation are identified in the context of a new variational problem with two constraints. The advantage of this variational problem is that its non-degenerate local minimizers are…

Our aim is to study the effect of a continuous prescribed density variation on the propagation of ocean waves. More precisely, we derive KdV-type shallow water model equations for unidirectional flows along the Equator from the full…

The integrable 3rd-order Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation emerges uniquely at linear order in the asymptotic expansion for unidirectional shallow water waves. However, at quadratic order, this asymptotic expansion produces an entire {\it…

We report on the shape dynamics of ice suspended in cold fresh water and subject to the natural convective flows generated during melting. Experiments reveal shape motifs for increasing far-field temperature: Sharp pinnacles directed…

Should it be a pebble hitting water surface or an explosion taking place underwater, concentric surface waves inevitably propagate. Except for possibly early times of the impact, finite amplitude concentric water waves emerge from a balance…

One of the main statistical features of near-neutral atmospheric boundary layer (ABL) turbulence is the positive vertical velocity skewness $Sk_w$ above the roughness sublayer or the buffer region in smooth-walls. The $Sk_w$ variations are…

In recent papers, denoted by MG24, MG25 in this text, we used the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation and its two-dimensional extension, the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation to describe the evolution of wind-driven water wave packets in…

Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…

The Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation is a fundamental partial differential equation that models wave propagation in shallow water and other dispersive media. Accurately solving the KdV equation is essential for understanding wave dynamics…

Anomalous diffusion is the fundamental ansatz of phenomenological theories of passive scalar turbulence, and has been confirmed numerically and experimentally to an extraordinary extent. The purpose of this survey is to discuss our recent…

We have derived the extended Korteweg-de Vries equation describing the long gravity waves without limitation to surface deviation. The only restriction to the surface deviation is connected with the stability condition for appropriate…

The wave spectral properties in the centimeter to decameter (cmDm) wavelength range is of great interest to ocean remote sensing and studies of ocean surface processes including the surface roughness, air-sea energy and momentum exchanges,…

The aim of this work is to study numerically the interaction of large amplitude solitary waves with an external periodic forcing using the forced extended Korteweg-de Vries equation (feKdV). Regarding these interactions, we find that a…