相关论文: On the open sea propagation of two-dimensional rot…

Oceanic waves registered by satellite observations often have curvilinear fronts and propagate over various currents. In this paper, we study long linear and weakly-nonlinear ring waves in a stratified fluid in the presence of a…

The currents in the ocean have a serious impact on ocean dynamics, since they affect the transport of mass and thus the distribution of salinity, nutrients and pollutants. In many physically important situations the current depends…

This paper is concerned with two-dimensional, steady, periodic water waves propagating at the free surface of water either in a flow of finite depth and constant vorticity over an impermeable flat bed or in an irrotational flow of great…

In this article, we present a predictive model for the amplitude of impulse waves generated by the collapse of a granular column into a water layer. The model, which combines the spreading dynamics of the grains and the wave hydrodynamics…

We obtain a general solution for the water waves resulting from a general, time-dependent surface pressure distribution, in the presence of a shear current of uniform vorticity beneath the surface, in three dimensions. Linearized governing…

In the present Letter we use the Direct Numerical Simulation (DNS) of the Navier-Stokes equation for a two-phase flow (water and air) to study the dynamics of the modulational instability of free surface waves and its contribution to the…

In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation…

This paper addresses long waves on the water surface. It is assumed that initially the water surface has not yet been displaced from its mean level, but the velocity field has already become different from zero. This means that the motion…

We present laboratory experiments of surface wave turbulence excited by paddles in the deep water regime. The free surface is seeded with buoyant particles that are advected and dispersed by the flow. Positions and velocities of the…

The standing surface waves in a rectangular vertically oscillating vessel filled with water (Faraday waves) in the presence of a floating elastic sheet are studied experimentally and theoretically. The threshold amplitude of the instability…

Formation of giant waves in sea states with two spectral maxima, centered at close wave vectors ${\bf k}_0\pm\Delta {\bf k}/2$ in the Fourier plane, is numerically simulated using the fully nonlinear model for long-crested water waves [V.…

This paper is concerned with the processes of spatial propagation and penetration of turbulence from the regions where it is locally excited into initially laminar regions. The phenomenon has come to be known as "turbulence spreading" and…

The main reason for the generation of tsunamis is the deformation of the bottom of the ocean caused by an underwater earthquake. Usually, only the vertical bottom motion is taken into account while the horizontal co-seismic displacements…

We present a large-amplitude existence theory for two-dimensional solitary waves propagating through a two layer body of water. The domain of the fluid is bounded below by an impermeable flat ocean floor and above by a free boundary at…

In this paper a rotating two-fluid model for the propagation of internal waves is introduced. The model can be derived from a rotating-fluid problem by including gravity effects or from a nonrotating one by adding rotational forces in the…

Given a distribution of earthquake-induced seafloor elevations, we present a method to compute the probability of the resulting tsunamis reaching a certain size on shore. Instead of sampling, the proposed method relies on optimization to…

We investigate experimentally the early stage of the generation of waves by a turbulent wind at the surface of a viscous liquid. The spatio-temporal structure of the surface deformation is analyzed by the optical method Free Surface…

The problem of submarine sediment slide which generates the surface water waves is considered. To simulate numerically the landslide motion it is used the method which permits to take into account detailed rheological properties of slide…

The equations for waves on the surface of an irrotational incompressible fluid are derived in the coordinates of the velocity potential/stream function. The low frequency shallow water approximation for these waves is derived for a varying…

Direct phase-resolved simulations are performed to investigate the propagation and scattering of nonlinear ocean waves in fragmented sea ice. The numerical model solves the full time-dependent equations for nonlinear potential flow coupled…