相关论文: On the open sea propagation of two-dimensional rot…
We study here the propagation of long waves in the presence of vorticity. In the irrotational framework, the Green-Naghdi equations (also called Serre or fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations) are the standard model for the propagation of…
Effective field theory descriptions of surface waves on flowing fluids have tended to assume that the flow is irrotational, but this assumption is often impractical due to boundary layer friction and flow recirculation. Here we develop an…
We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…
Interactions between inertia-gravity waves and balanced flows lead to a spectral diffusion of wave action. Prior work has established that this diffusion is weak across constant frequency surfaces in three-dimensional settings, but can be…
We consider the two-dimensional water-wave problem with a general non-zero vorticity field in a fluid volume with a flat bed and a free surface. The nonlinear equations of motion for the chosen surface and volume variables are expressed…
Wave turbulence in a thin elastic plate is experimentally investigated. By using a Fourier transform profilometry technique, the deformation field of the plate surface is measured simultaneously in time and space. This enables us to compute…
Turbulent flows above a solid surface are characterised by a hydrodynamic roughness that represents, for the far velocity field, the typical length scale at which momentum mixing occurs close to the surface. Here, we are theoretically…
The behaviour of internal waves propagating in a background shear flow is studied in the case where the direction of shear is orthogonal to gravity. Ray-tracing theory is used to predict properties of the wave state at locations where…
Experiments on 2D random water wave propagation in a large wave tank are analyzed when the effect of dispersion changes. A stereoscopic profilometry technique is used to measure the water surface displacement resolved in both time and space…
We study dispersion properties of linear surface gravity waves propagating in an arbitrary direction atop a current profile of depth-varying magnitude using a piecewise linear approximation, and develop a robust numerical framework for…
We study the two-dimensional problem of propagation of linear water waves in deep water in the presence of a submerged body. Under some geometrical requirements, we derive an explicit bound for the solution depending on the domain and the…
We study water waves propagating over a smooth obstacle in a fluid of varying depth, motivated by the observation that submerged islands in the ocean act as effective lenses that increase the amplitude and destructive power of tsunami waves…
Modeling turbulent flows by a random Fourier decomposition is a classical procedure in order to use simplified models of turbulence in heat transport and other applications. We carefully investigate the Fourier time series of…
We study the vertical dispersion and distribution of negatively buoyant rigid microplastics within a realistic circulation model of the Mediterranean sea. We first propose an equation describing their idealized dynamics. In that framework,…
A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…
We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…
In this Letter, we experimentally investigate the collapse of initially dry granular media into water and the subsequent impulse waves. We systematically characterize the influence of the slope angle and the granular material on the initial…
Vortical flows in shallow water interact with long surface waves by virtue of the nonlinear terms of the fluid equations. Analytical formulae are derived that quantify the spontaneous generation of such waves by unsteady vorticity as well…
The present article is devoted to the influence of sediment layers on the process of tsunami generation. The main scope here is to demonstrate and especially quantify the effect of sedimentation on vertical displacements of the seabed due…
Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…