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The present study is devoted to the problem of tsunami wave generation. The main goal of this work is two-fold. First of all, we propose a simple and computationally inexpensive model for the description of the sea bed displacement during…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2020-01-13 Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Xavier Gardeil , Frédéric Dias

This paper considers two-dimensional stratified water waves propagating under the force of gravity over an impermeable flat bed and with a free surface. We prove the existence of a global continuum of classical solutions that are periodic…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2009-02-11 Samuel Walsh

We report the experimental characterization of free-surface deformations generated by three-dimensional homogeneous and isotropic turbulence. Using Fourier transform profilometry in a jet-forced turbulent tank, we perform spatiotemporal…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-05-14 Michaël Berhanu , Eric Falcon

In this paper we consider fundamental processes of the disturbance and propagation of internal gravity waves in the ocean modeled as a vertically stratified, horizontally non-uniform, and non-stationary medium. We develop asymptotic methods…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2013-08-20 Vitaly V. Bulatov , Yuriy V. Vladimirov

Inertial waves transport energy and momentum in rotating fluids and are a major contributor to mixing and tidal dissipation in Earth's oceans, gaseous planets, and stellar interiors. However, their stability and breakdown mechanisms are not…

地球与行星天体物理 · 物理学 2026-02-12 Valentin Skoutnev , Aurélie Astoul , Adrian J. Barker

The problem of tsunami wave shoaling and runup in U-shaped bays (such as fjords) and underwater canyons is studied in the framework of shallow water theory. The wave shoaling in bays, when the depth varies smoothly along the channel axis,…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2015-05-18 Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

Long-distance transmission of energy by waves is a key mechanism for many natural processes. It becomes possible when the inhomogeneous medium is arranged in such a manner that it enables a specific type of waves to propagate with virtually…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-11-18 Semyon Churilov

We report experimental measurements of inertial waves generated by an oscillating cylinder in a rotating fluid. The two-dimensional wave takes place in a stationary cross-shaped wavepacket. Velocity and vorticity fields in a vertical plane…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2015-03-13 Pierre-Philippe Cortet , Cyril Lamriben , Frederic Moisy

We present a novel meshless tsunami propagation and inundation model. We discretize the nonlinear shallow-water equations using a well-balanced scheme relying on radial basis function based finite differences. The inundation model relies on…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2018-05-09 Rüdiger Brecht , Alexander Bihlo , Scott MacLachlan , Jörn Behrens

Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2018-07-04 Christian Kharif , Malek Abid

This paper considers two-dimensional steady solitary waves with constant vorticity propagating under the influence of gravity over an impermeable flat bed. Unlike in previous works on solitary waves, we allow for both internal stagnation…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2021-10-12 Susanna V. Haziot , Miles. H. Wheeler

The classical equations of irrotational water waves have recently been reformulated as a system of two equations, one of which is an explicit non-local equation for the wave height and for the velocity potential evaluated on the free…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2011-08-01 Anthony C. L Ashton , A. S. Fokas

Energy transmission over long distances by waves is a key mechanism for many natural processes. This possibility arises when an inhomogeneous medium is arranged in such a manner that it enables a certain type of wave to propagate with…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-05-05 Semyon Churilov

Floating offshore wind turbines (FOWTs) are subjected to platform motion induced by wind and wave loads. The oscillatory movement trigger vortex instabilities, modifying the wake structure, influencing the flow reaching downstream wind…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-03-21 Vitor G. Kleine , Lucas Franceschini , Bruno S. Carmo , Ardeshir Hanifi , Dan S. Henningson

The estimate of individual wave run-up is especially important for tsunami warning and risk assessment as it allows to evaluate the inundation area. Here as a model of tsunami we use the long single wave of positive polarity. The period of…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2020-02-20 Ahmed Abdalazeez , Ira Didenkulova , Denys Dutykh

A method of windowed spatio-temporal spectral filtering is proposed to segregate different nonlinear wave components, and to calculate the surface of free waves. The dynamic kurtosis (i.e., produced by the free wave component) is shown able…

斑图形成与孤子 · 物理学 2020-07-01 Alexey Slunyaev

The modeling of tsunami generation is an essential phase in understanding tsunamis. For tsunamis generated by underwater earthquakes, it involves the modeling of the sea bottom motion as well as the resulting motion of the water above it. A…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2020-02-20 Youen Kervella , Denys Dutykh , Frédéric Dias

We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2015-11-19 Pablo Gutiérrez , Sébastien Aumaitre

We study the behavior of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves traveling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2025-05-21 David I. Ketcheson , Giovanni Russo

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban