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In this article we apply local bifurcation theory to prove the existence of small-amplitude steady periodic water waves, which propagate over a flat bed with a specified fixed mean-depth, and where the underlying flow has a discontinuous…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2024-09-16 David Henry , Silvia Sastre-Gomez

The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-02-17 Tianyi Li , Lian Shen

We present a study of sound wave propagation in a time dependent random medium and an application to imaging. The medium is modeled by small temporal and spatial random fluctuations in the wave speed and density, and it moves due to an…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2018-06-19 Liliana Borcea , Josselin Garnier , Knut Solna

We report an experimental and numerical study of turbulent fluid motion in a free surface. The flow is realized experimentally on the surface of a tank filled with water stirred by a vertically oscillating grid positioned well below the…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2009-10-31 W. I. Goldburg , J. R. Cressman , Z. Voros , B. Eckhardt , J. Schumacher

In this paper we examine the flow generated by coupled surface and internal small-amplitude water waves in a two-fluid layer model, where we take the upper layer to be rotational (constant vorticity) and the lower layer to be irrotational.…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-01-21 David Henry , Rossen I. Ivanov , Zisis N. Sakellaris

Turbulent and internal wave motions are important for the exchange of momentum, heat and suspended matter in the deep-sea which is generally stably stratified in density. Turbulence-generation models involve shear of vertical current…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-03-21 Hans van Haren

The spatial structure of the inhomogeneity in a disordered medium determines how waves scatter and propagate in it. We present a theoretical model of how the Fourier components of the disorder control wave scattering in a two-dimensional…

光学 · 物理学 2023-10-03 Zhun-Yong Ong

The aim of this article is to study the attenuation of transient low-frequency waves in 2D lattices in both plane and antiplane problems. The main idea of this article is that analytical solutions to problems of mechanics of discrete…

经典物理 · 物理学 2022-01-31 Nadezhda I. Aleksandrova

The general equations of motion for ocean dynamics are presented and the waves supported by the (inviscid, unforced) linearized system with respect to a state of rest are derived. The linearized dynamics sustains one zero frequency mode…

物理教育 · 物理学 2007-05-23 F. J. Beron-Vera

Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2025-10-13 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Bertrand Chapron , J. Thomas Farrar , Luc Deike

The propagation of unstable interfaces is at the origin of remarkable patterns that are observed in various areas of science as chemical reactions, phase transitions, growth of bacterial colonies. Since a scalar equation generates usually…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2014-01-31 Michal Kolwalczyk , Benoit Perthame , Nicolas Vauchelet

Microwave transport experiments have been performed in a quasi-two-dimensional resonator with randomly distributed scatterers, each mimicking an $r^{-2}$ repulsive potential. Analysis of both stationary wave fields and transient transport…

无序系统与神经网络 · 物理学 2010-03-09 R. Hoehmann , U. Kuhl , H. -J. Stoeckmann , L. Kaplan , E. J. Heller

The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2015-05-14 Bengt Eliasson , Padma K. Shukla

We examine a two-media 2-dimensional fluid system consisting of a lower medium bounded underneath by a flatbed and an upper medium with a free surface with wind generated surface waves but considered bounded above by a lid by an assumption…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2016-07-06 Alan Compelli , Rossen Ivanov

The coupled motion is investigated for a mechanical system consisting of water and a body freely floating in it. Water occupies either a half-space or a layer of constant depth into which an infinitely long surface-piercing cylinder is…

数学物理 · 物理学 2015-03-10 Nikolay Kuznetsov

The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-04-06 A. V. Slunyaev , A. V. Kokorina , M. Klein

In this paper we consider two-dimensional water waves with constant vorticity, under the action of gravity and surface tension, in a fluid domain with finite depth and general bottom topography. We present a formulation which generalizes…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2025-05-22 S. Pasquali

Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-01-27 Ina Teutsch , Saulo Mendes , Jerome Kasparian

A laminar flow of a thin layer of mud down an inclined plane under the action of gravity is considered. The instability of a film flow and the formation of finite amplitude waves are studied in the framework of both two-dimensional…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2021-03-01 Alexander Chesnokov

We investigate the hydroelastic wake created by a perturbation moving at constant speed along a thin elastic sheet floating at the surface of deep water. Using a high-resolution cross-correlation imaging technique, we characterize the waves…