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The generation of a tsunami wave by an aerial landslide is investigated through model laboratory experiments. We examine the collapse of an initially dry column of grains into a shallow water layer and the subsequent generation of waves.…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2020-11-19 M. Robbe-Saule , C. Morize , R. Henaff , Y. Bertho , A. Sauret , P. Gondret

When shallow water flows over uneven bathymetry, the water surface is modulated. This type of problem has been revisited numerous times since it was first studied by Lord Kelvin in 1886. Our study analytically examines currents whose…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2019-10-23 Andreas H. Akselsen , Simen Å Ellingsen

The constant vorticity {\bf two-layer water wave} in the $\beta$-plane approximation with centripetal forces is investigated in this paper. Different from the works (Chu and Yang\cite[JDE, 2020]{chu} and Chu and Yang \cite[JDE, 2021]{chu2})…

经典分析与常微分方程 · 数学 2023-08-10 Yuchao He , Yongli Song , Yonghui Xia

In the linear approximation we study long wave scattering on an axially symmetric flow in a shallow water basin with a drain in the center. This classical problem can be considered as a model of wave scattering on a rotating black hole. For…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2019-05-15 Semyon Churilov , Yury Stepanyants

We investigate the existence of solitary gravity waves traversing a two-dimensional body of water that is bounded below by a flat impenetrable ocean bed and above by a free surface of constant pressure. Our main interest is constructing…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2021-03-02 Adelaide Akers , Samuel Walsh

The two-dimensional free-boundary problem of steady periodic waves with vorticity is considered for water of finite depth. We investigate how flows with small-amplitude Stokes waves on the free surface bifurcate from a horizontal parallel…

数学物理 · 物理学 2014-06-06 Vladimir Kozlov , Nikolay Kuznetsov

Trapped surface waves have been observed in a swimming pool trapped by, and rotating around, the cores of vortices. To investigate this effect, we have numerically studied the free-surface response of a Lamb--Oseen vortex to small…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-10-18 Emanuele Zuccoli , Edward James Brambley , Dwight Barkley

We consider the modulational instability of nonlinearly interacting two-dimensional waves in deep water, which are described by a pair of two-dimensional coupled nonlinear Schroedinger equations. We derive a nonlinear dispersion relation.…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2007-05-23 P. K. Shukla , I. Kourakis , B. Eliasson , M. Marklund , L. Stenflo

The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2014-10-08 Kyle A. Brucker , Thomas T. O'Shea , Douglas G. Dommermuth , Paul Adams

This work builds on and confirms the theoretical findings of Part 1 of this paper, Moarref & Jovanovi\'c (2010). We use direct numerical simulations of the Navier-Stokes equations to assess the efficacy of blowing and suction in the form of…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2011-11-29 Binh K. Lieu , Rashad Moarref , Mihailo R. Jovanović

Consider a two-dimensional stratified solitary wave propagating through a body of water that is bounded below by an impermeable ocean bed. In this work, we study how such a wave can be reconstructed from data consisting of the wave speed,…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2015-03-02 Robin Ming Chen , Samuel Walsh

We study the generation of 2D turbulence in Faraday waves by investigating the creation of spatially periodic vortices in this system. Measurements which couple a diffusing light imaging technique and particle tracking algorithms allow the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2014-05-09 N. Francois , H. Xia , H. Punzmann , S. Ramsden , M. Shats

We consider waves radiated by a disturbance of oscillating strength moving at constant velocity along the free surface of a shear flow which, when undisturbed, has uniform horizontal vorticity of magnitude $S$. When no current is present…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-08-02 Yan Li , Simen Å. Ellingsen

Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…

可精确求解与可积系统 · 物理学 2009-11-11 Irina Didenkulova , Narcisse Zahibo , Andrey Kurkin , Efim Pelinovsky

We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-11-22 Konstantin Ilin

Wave localization is a ubiquitous phenomenon. It refers to situations that transmitted waves in scattering media are trapped in space and remain confined in the vicinity of the initial site until dissipated. Based on a scaling analysis, the…

软凝聚态物质 · 物理学 2007-05-23 Zhen Ye

Inspired by the wake-surfing nature of animals, this study aims to understand the aerodynamic force variation on a wing surfing in an unsteady 2-D wake. Wind tunnel experiments were conducted using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) and force…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2025-12-11 Siyang Hao , Kenneth Breuer

Oceanic tides are a major source of tidal dissipation. They drive the evolution of planetary systems and the rotational dynamics of planets. However, 2D models commonly used for the Earth cannot be applied to extrasolar telluric planets…

地球与行星天体物理 · 物理学 2018-07-18 Pierre Auclair-Desrotour , Stéphane Mathis , Jacques Laskar , Jérémy Leconte

Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2007-05-23 Rudy Magne , Fabrice Ardhuin

In this short note, we derive a system of two nonlocal equations for the water-wave problem following the work of [AFM06]. Specifically, we consider a fluid with a one-dimensional free surface for an irrotational fluid both with, and…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2020-08-04 KL Oliveras