相关论文: On the open sea propagation of two-dimensional rot…
A fourth-order and a second-order nonlinear diffusion models in spectral space are proposed to describe gravitational wave turbulence in the approximation of strongly local interactions. We show analytically that the model equations satisfy…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
We report on the scattering of a plane wave from a vertically oscillating plate in the low frequency approximation by means of Floquet theory. In the case of a static plate, the scattering coefficients are evaluated via mode matching method…
We study the paraxial wave equation with a randomly perturbed index of refraction, which can model the propagation of a wave beam in a turbulent medium. The random perturbation is a stationary and isotropic process with a general form of…
We study the dynamics of surface waves on a semi-toroidal ring of water that is excited by vertical vibration. We create this specific fluid volume by patterning a glass plate with a hydrophobic coating, which confines the fluid to a…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
We examine the applicability of the weak wave turbulence theory in explaining experimental scaling results obtained for the diffusion and relative diffusion of particles moving on turbulent surface waves. For capillary waves our theoretical…
Surface waves on a liquid air interface excited by a vertical vibration of a fluid layer (Faraday waves) are employed to investigate the phase relaxation of ideally ordered patterns. By means of a combined frequency-amplitude modulation of…
Fundamental biological and biomimetic processes, from tissue morphogenesis to soft robotics, rely on the propagation of chemical and mechanical surface waves to signal and coordinate active force generation. The complex interplay between…
We develop a weakly nonlinear model to study the spatiotemporal manifestation and the dynamical behavior of surface waves in the presence of an underlying interfacial solitary wave in a two-layer fluid system. We show that interfacial…
Numerical simulations describing plunging breakers including the splash-up phenomenon are presented. The motion is governed by the classical, incompressible, two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equation. The numerical modelling of this two-phase…
We study the modulational instability of a shallow water model, with and without surface tension, which generalizes the Whitham equation to include bi-directional propagation. Without surface tension, the small amplitude periodic traveling…
This paper considers the existence and stability properties of two-dimensional solitary waves traversing an infinitely deep body of water. We assume that above the water is vacuum, and that the waves are acted upon by gravity with surface…
A study of a stable front propagating in a turbulent medium is presented. The front is generated through a reaction-diffusion equation, and the turbulent medium is statistically modeled using a Langevin equation. Numerical simulations…
Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…
We report the observation of gravity-capillary waves on a torus of fluid. By means of an original technique, a stable torus is achieved by depositing water on a superhydrophobic groove with a shallow wedge-shaped channel running along its…
We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…
In this paper, we want to understand the Proudman resonance. It is a resonant respond in shallow waters of a water body on a traveling atmospheric disturbance when the speed of the disturbance is close to the typical water wave velocity. We…
Wind-wave interaction involves wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on the turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind and wave loading on structures. Existing research on wind-wave interaction modeling ignores…
Both 1DH (dispersive and non-dispersive) and 2DH axisymmetric (approximate, non-dispersive) analytical solutions are derived for water waves generated by moving atmospheric pressures. In 1DH, three wave components can be identified: the…