相关论文: On the Oval Shapes of Beach Stones
Among pebbles strewn across a sandy ocean beach one can find relatively many with a nearly perfect elliptical (ellipsoidal) shape, and one wonders how this shape was attained and whether, during abrasion, the pebbles would remain elliptical…
We propose a geometrically motivated mathematical model which reveals the key features of coastal and fluvial fragment shape evolution from the earliest stages of the abrasion. Our \textit{collisional polygon model} governs the evolution…
Erosion of rocky coasts spontaneously creates irregular seashores. But the geometrical irregularity, in turn, damps the sea-waves, decreasing the average wave amplitude. There may then exist a mutual self-stabilisation of the waves…
We introduce an evolution model \`a la Firey for a convex stone which tumbles on a beach and undertakes an erosion process depending on some variational energy, such as torsional rigidity, principal Dirichlet Laplacian eigenvalue, or…
We propose a mathematical model which suggests that the two main geological observations about shingle beaches, i.e. the emergence of predominant pebble size ratios and strong segregation by size are interrelated. Our model is a based on a…
We discuss various situations where the formation of rocky coast morphology can be attributed to the retro-action of the coast morphology itself on the erosive power of the sea. Destroying the weaker elements of the coast, erosion can…
In classical continuum physics, a wave is a mechanical disturbance. Whether the disturbance is stationary or traveling and whether it is caused by the motion of atoms and molecules or the vibration of a lattice structure, a wave can be…
Impact induced attrition processes are, beyond being essential models of industrial ore processing, broadly regarded as the key to decipher the provenance of sedimentary particles. A detailed understanding of single impact phenomena of…
Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groynes, breakwaters and various other structures. We address this problem…
We propose to characterize the shapes of flat pebbles in terms of the statistical distribution of curvatures measured along the pebble contour. This is demonstrated for the erosion of clay pebbles in a controlled laboratory apparatus.…
For 3D geometries, we consider stones (modeled as convex polyhedra) subject to weathering with planar slices of random orientation and depth successively removing material, ultimately yielding smooth and round (i.e. spherical) shapes. An…
The shapes of flat pebbles may be characterized in terms of the statistical distribution of curvatures measured along their contours. We illustrate this new method for clay pebbles eroded in a controlled laboratory apparatus, and also for…
Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groins, breakwaters and various other structures. We try to address this…
We study the morphological evolution of surfaces during ion sputtering and we compare their dynamical roughening with aeolian ripple formation in sandy deserts. We show that, although the two phenomena are physically different, they must…
Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…
According to Shoemaker, the "impact of solid bodies is the most fundamental process that has taken place on the terrestrial planets", as they shape the surfaces of all solar system bodies. A lot of information on this process has been…
Particles such as microplastics and phytoplankton suspended in the water column in the natural environment are often subject to the action of surface gravity waves. By modelling such anisotropic particles as small spheroids that slowly…
For any kind of wave phenomenon one can find ways to derive the respective dispersion relation from experimental observations and measurements. This dispersion relation determines the structure of the wave equation and thus characterizes…
The purpose of this paper is to study the impact force of an oblique angled slamming wave acting on a rigid wall. In the present study the analytical approach is pursued based on a technique proposed by the author. A nonlinear theory in the…
We report on the erosion of flat linoleum "pebbles" under steady rotation in a slurry of abrasive grit. To quantify shape as a function of time, we develop a general method in which the pebble is photographed from multiple angles with…