相关论文: Understanding the tsunami with a simple model
We study the two-dimensional rotating shallow-water model describing Earth's oceanic layers. It is formally analogue to a Schr\"odinger equation where the tools from topological insulators are relevant. Once regularized at small scale by an…
The inertial subrange of turbulence in a density stratified environment is the transition from internal waves to isotropic turbulence, but it is unclear how to interpret its extension to anisotropic stratified turbulence. Knowledge about…
During direct numerical simulation of the isotropic turbulence of surface gravity waves in the framework of Hamiltonian equations formation of the long wave background or condensate was observed. Exponents of the direct cascade spectra at…
The gravity-driven spreading of one fluid in contact with another fluid is of key importance to a range of topics. To describe these phenomena, the two-layer shallow-water equations is commonly employed. When one layer is significantly…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
We study the phenomenon of turbulence from the point of view of statistical physics. We discuss what makes the turbulent states different from the thermodynamic equilibrium and give the turbulent analog of the partition function. Then,…
Using Levi-Civita's theory of ideal fluids, we derive the complex Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, describing the complex velocity of a shallow fluid up to first order. We use perturbation theory, and the long wave, slowly varying velocity…
The hydroelastic response of free floating viscoelastic covers is measured using Faraday waves on the surface of a vertically oscillated fluid layer. We systematically vary the thickness $d$ of the covers to investigate its effect on the…
The complex interactions of localized vortices with waves is investigated using a model of point vortices in the presence of a transverse or longitudinal wave. This simple model shows a rich dynamical behavior including oscillations of a…
Since the pioneering work of Kelvin on Laplace tidal equations, a zoology of trapped waves have been found in the context of coastal dynamics. Among them, the one originally computed by Kelvin plays a particular role, as it is an…
Our aim is to study the effect of a continuous prescribed density variation on the propagation of ocean waves. More precisely, we derive KdV-type shallow water model equations for unidirectional flows along the Equator from the full…
We study the nonlinear interactions of waves with a doubled-peaked power spectrum in shallow water. The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear uni-directional waves in shallow water, i.e. the Korteweg de Vries equation.…
The scattering of electromagnetic waves by an obstacle is analyzed through a set of partial differential equations combining the Maxwell's model with the mechanics of fluids. Solitary type EM waves, having compact support, may easily be…
The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…
In our daily lives, we observe objects sinking, floating, or rising when immersed in a fluid. The Archimedes principle, which explains an object's behavior when immersed in a fluid, is important in fluid mechanics; however, it is a…
During motion from deep to shallow water, multiple equilibria may emerge, each with identical drag - a phenomenon that can be explained by a localised amplification of the wave drag near the shallow wave speed. The implication of this is…
Presented here is the mathematical model describing the phenomenon of shock waves. The underlying concept is based on the time-space model of wave propagation.
A numerical solution to the problem of wave scattering by many small particles is studied under the assumption k<<1, d>>a, where a is the size of the particles and d is the distance between the neighboring particles. Impedance boundary…
We describe traveling waves in a basic model for three-dimensional water-wave dynamics in the weakly nonlinear long-wave regime. Small solutions that are periodic in the direction of translation (or orthogonal to it) form an…
Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…