相关论文: Edge waves along a sloping beach
This paper explores an idealized model of the ocean surface in which widely separated surface-wave packets and point vortices interact in two horizontal dimensions. We start with a Lagrangian which, in its general form, depends on the…
Here I present a general formulation of water wave propagation and scattering over topographical bottoms. A simple equation is found and is compared with existing theories. As an application, the theory is extended to the case of water…
This article provides a survey on some main results and recent developments in the mathematical theory of water waves. More precisely, we briefly discuss the mathematical modeling of water waves and then we give an overview of local and…
We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…
For propagation of surface shallow-water waves on irrotational flows, we derive a new two-component system. The system is obtained by a variational approach in the Lagrangian formalism. The system has a non-canonical Hamiltonian…
We describe traveling waves in a basic model for three-dimensional water-wave dynamics in the weakly nonlinear long-wave regime. Small solutions that are periodic in the direction of translation (or orthogonal to it) form an…
Energy transmission over long distances by waves is a key mechanism for many natural processes. This possibility arises when an inhomogeneous medium is arranged in such a manner that it enables a certain type of wave to propagate with…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
We study the two-dimensional problem of propagation of linear water waves in deep water in the presence of a submerged body. Under some geometrical requirements, we derive an explicit bound for the solution depending on the domain and the…
The Lagrangian formulation for the irrotational wave motion is straightforward and follows from a Lagrangian functional which is the difference between the kinetic and the potential energy of the system. In the case of fluid with constant…
Modern, high-fidelity numerical simulations have shown an apparently anomalous result: a longitudinal elastodynamic wave travelling perpendicular to the forcing direction. Numerical simulations, in combination with an analytical model, are…
A coastal eddy is modelled as a barotropic vortex propagating along a coastal shelf. If the vortex speed matches the phase speed of any coastal trapped shelf wave modes, a shelf wave wake is generated leading to a flux of energy from the…
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up…
We develop a weakly nonlinear model to study the spatiotemporal manifestation and the dynamical behavior of surface waves in the presence of an underlying interfacial solitary wave in a two-layer fluid system. We show that interfacial…
Rotating waves are a fascinating feature of a wide array of complex systems, particularly those arising in the study of many chemical and biological processes. With many rigorous mathematical investigations of rotating waves relying on the…
The extreme characteristics of long wave run-up are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation (Carrier & Greenspan, 1958). Then, using numerical…
Waves play an essential role in many aspects of plasma science, such as plasma manipulation and diagnostics. Due to the complexity of the governing equations, approximate models are often necessary to describe wave dynamics. In this…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
We derive the equations of motion for the dynamics of a porous media filled with an incompressible fluid. We use a variational approach with a Lagrangian written as the sum of terms representing the kinetic and potential energy of the…
Nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves trapped by an opposing jet current is studied analytically and numerically. For wave fields narrowband in frequency but not necessarily with narrow angular distributions the developed asymptotic…