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This thesis is concerned with dynamics of conservative nonlinear waves on bounded domains. In general, there are two scenarios of evolution. Either the solution behaves in an oscillatory, quasiperiodic manner or the nonlinear effects cause…

广义相对论与量子宇宙学 · 物理学 2016-03-04 Maciej Maliborski

New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent…

This thesis deals with some theoretical aspects of deterministic freak wave generation in the wave basin of a hydrodynamic laboratory. We adopt the spatial nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation as a mathematical model to describe the deformation…

斑图形成与孤子 · 物理学 2020-06-02 Natanael Karjanto

Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-05-29 Rui Cao , Enrique M. Padilla , Xu Chen , Adrian H. Callaghan

Modulational, Benjamin-Feir, instability is studied for the down-stream evolution of surface gravity waves. An explicit solution, the soliton on finite background, of the NLS equation in physical space is used to study various phenomena in…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2019-06-03 Andonowati , N. Karjanto , E. van Groesen

We consider evolution of wave pulses with formation of dispersive shock waves in framework of fully nonlinear shallow-water equations. Situations of initial elevations or initial dips on the water surface are treated and motion of the…

斑图形成与孤子 · 物理学 2021-11-08 S. K. Ivanov , A. M. Kamchatnov

We discuss various situations where the formation of rocky coast morphology can be attributed to the retro-action of the coast morphology itself on the erosive power of the sea. Destroying the weaker elements of the coast, erosion can…

统计力学 · 物理学 2012-02-21 Andrea Baldassarri , Bernard Sapoval , Simon Félix

The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2009-11-13 Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky , Tarmo Soomere

We investigate the quasilinear effects of the resonant wave-particle interaction under conditions of imbalanced turbulent heating in the collisionless coronal hole. We find that velocity-space transport of protons from the heated part of…

The effect of the wind on the sustain of extreme water waves is investigated experimentally and numerically. A series of experiments conducted in the Large Air-Sea Interactions Facility (LASIF) showed that a wind blowing over a strongly…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2009-11-13 Jean-Paul Giovanangeli , Christian Kharif , Julien Touboul

The processes that generate rogue waves on the sea surface remain a mystery. Despite their different natures, the nonlinear bending waves generated in a thin elastic plate share some similarities with waves on the surface of the sea. For…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2025-07-17 Murukesh Muralidhar , Antoine Naert , Sébastien Aumaître

We investigate the stability, nonlinear development and equilibrium structure of vortices in a background shearing Keplerian flow. We make use of high-resolution global two-dimensional compressible hydrodynamic simulations. We introduce the…

天体物理学 · 物理学 2009-11-13 G. Bodo , A. Tevzadze , G. Chagelishvili , A. Mignone , P. Rossi , A. Ferrari

By numerical simulation of exact equations of motion (in terms of conformal variables) for planar non-stationary potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over a strongly non-uniform bottom profile, the effect of nonlinear…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-02-10 Victor P. Ruban

A weakly nonlinear theory has been proposed and developed for calculating the energy- transfer rate to individual waves in a group. It is shown what portion of total energy- transfer rate, over the envelope of wave group, affects individual…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-04-19 S. G. Sajjadi , J. C. R. Hunt , F. Drullion

We investigate the mechanism of whistler-mode wave generation by shock-reflected electrons at quasi-perpendicular collisionless shocks. By employing Liouville mapping to construct the electron velocity distribution function in the shock and…

等离子体物理 · 物理学 2026-03-20 Ruolin Wang , Takanobu Amano

The modulation instability is a focusing mechanism responsible for the formation of strong wave localizations not only on the water surface, but also in a variety of nonlinear dispersive media. Such dynamics is initiated from the injection…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-06-22 Yuchen He , Andy Witt , Stefano Trillo , Amin Chabchoub , Norbert Hoffmann

The investigation of dynamics of intense solitary wave groups of collinear surface waves is performed by means of numerical simulations of the Euler equations and laboratory experiments. The processes of solitary wave generation, reflection…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-04-26 A. Slunyaev , M. Klein , G. F. Clauss

Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-04-01 Saulo Mendes

Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is…

可精确求解与可积系统 · 物理学 2007-05-23 Narcisse Zahibo , Irina Didenkulova , Andrey Kurkin , Efim Pelinovsky

From optics to hydrodynamics, shock and rogue waves are widespread. Although they appear as distinct phenomena, new theories state that transitions between extreme waves are allowed. However, these have never been experimentally observed…