相关论文: Evolution of extreme nonlinear wave fields over st…
Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…
The stability and transition in the bottom boundary layer under a solitary wave are analysed in the presence of finite amplitude disturbances. First, the receptivity of the boundary layer is investigated using a linear input-output…
Instead of taking the usual passive view for warning of near shore surging waves including extreme waves like tsunamis, we aim to study the possibility of intervening and controlling nonlinear surface waves through the feedback boundary…
Serrations are commonly employed to mitigate the turbulent boundary layer trailing-edge noise. However, significant discrepancies persist between model predictions and experimental observations. In this paper, we show that this results from…
We study deep water ocean wind-driven waves in strait, with wind directed orthogonally to the shore, through exact Hasselmann equation. Despite of "dissipative" shores - we do not include any reflection from the coast lines - we show that…
We study coherent wave scattering through waveguides with a step-like surface disorder and find distinct enhancements in the reflection coefficients at well-defined resonance values. Based on detailed numerical and analytical calculations,…
The issue of accounting of the wave breaking phenomenon in direct numerical simulations of oceanic waves is discussed. It is emphasized that this problem is crucial for the deterministic description of waves, and also for the dynamical…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
Considering two-dimensional potential ideal flow with free surface and finite depth, we study the dynamics of small-amplitude and short-wavelength wavetrains propagating on the background of a steepening nonlinear wave. This can be seen as…
The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…
We investigate the evolution of non-linear density perturbations by taking into account the effects of deviations from spherical symmetry of a system. Starting from the standard spherical top hat model in which these effects are ignored, we…
The linear stability of rapid granular flow on a slope under gravity against the longitudinal perturbation is analyzed using hydrodynamic equations. It is demonstrated that the steady flow uniform along the flow direction becomes unstable…
The propagation of nonlinear waves in one dimensional space, unsteady and compressible flow in Darcy-type porous media is analyzed. It is assumed that the weak discontinuity propagate long the characteristic path using the characteristics…
We investigate strongly nonlinear stationary gravity waves which experience refraction due to a thin vertical shear layer of horizontal background wind. The velocity amplitude of the waves is of the same order of magnitude as the background…
The extreme characteristics of long wave run-up are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation (Carrier & Greenspan, 1958). Then, using numerical…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
An incremental wave superimposed on a pre-deformed hyper-elastic material perceives an elastic media with the instantaneous modulus of the current material. This offers a new route with a broadband feature to control elastic waves by…
Traveling waves are ubiquitous in nature and control the speed of many important dynamical processes, including chemical reactions, epidemic outbreaks, and biological evolution. Despite their fundamental role in complex systems, traveling…
We perform one of the first studies into the nonlinear evolution of tidally excited inertial waves in a uniformly rotating fluid body, exploring a simplified model of the fluid envelope of a planet (or the convective envelope of a…
We study statistical properties after a sudden episode of wind for water waves propagating in one direction. A wave with random initial conditions is propagated using a forced-damped higher order Nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLS).…