相关论文: On the open sea propagation of two-dimensional rot…

We investigate a hydrodynamic equation system which - with some approximation - is capable to describe the tsunami propagation in the open ocean with the time-dependent self-similar Ansatz. We found analytic solutions how the wave height…

We present a novel numerical method for simulating the generation and propagation of surface gravity waves by vertical seabed displacements. The cornerstone of our method is the computation of a time dependent conformal map which…

The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…

Recent scientific studies have suggested that, in certain physical configurations, the time-dependent behavior of earthquake rupture and seafloor (bathymetry) motion can leave observable near-field signatures in tsunami wave generation and…

We report laboratory experiments on surface waves generated in a uniform fluid layer whose bottom undergoes a sudden upward motion. Simultaneous measurements of the free-surface deformation and the fluid velocity field are focused on the…

Tsunamis are often generated by a moving sea bottom. This paper deals with the case where the tsunami source is an earthquake. The linearized water-wave equations are solved analytically for various sea bottom motions. Numerical results…

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Here to represent the propagation of waves I attempted to describe them separately in space and time domains. The time and space wave equations are obtained and investigated, and formulas for the wave propagation are expressed. I also tried…

We study a linear model for the propagation of hydro-acoustic waves and tsunami in a stratified free-surface ocean. A formulation was previously obtained by linearizing the compressible Euler equations. The new formulation is obtained by…

The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

While the propagation of tsunamis is well understood and well simulated by numerical models, there are still a number of unanswered questions related to the generation of tsunamis or the subsequent inundation. We review some of the basic…

The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…

Modern day studies of wind-driven sea waves are usually focused on wind forcing rather than on the effect of resonant nonlinear wave interactions. The authors assume that these effects are dominating and propose a simple relationship…

In the present study a mathematical model of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction with the effect of Earth's rotation is derived by following the formal asymptotic procedures. Such a model equation is analogous to…

In this work we study oceanic waves in a shallow water flow subject to strong wind forcing and rotation, and linearized around a inhomogeneous (non zonal) stationary profile. This extends the study \cite{CGPS}, where the profile was assumed…

Tsunami waves induced by landslides are a threat to human activities and safety along coastal areas. In this paper, we characterize experimentally the waves generated by the gravity-driven collapse of a dry granular column into water. Three…

We investigate the occurrence of topologically protected waves in classical fluids confined on curved surfaces. Using a combination of topological band theory and real space analysis, we demonstrate the existence of a system-independent…

In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…