相关论文: The effect of induced flow on the water wave skewn…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…
The well-known Stokes waves refer to periodic traveling waves under the gravity at the free surface of a two dimensional full water wave system. In this paper, we prove that small-amplitude Stokes waves with infinite depth are nonlinearly…
The original investigation of Lamb (1932, {\S}349) for the effect of viscosity on monochromatic surface waves is extended to account for second-order Stokes surface waves on deep water in the presence of surface tension. This extension is…
A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are…
Regularizing effects of surface tension are studied for interfacial waves between a two-dimensional, infinitely-deep and irrotational flow of water and vacuum. The water wave problem under the influence of surface tension is formulated as a…
Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave…
We study the effect of surface gravity waves on the motion of inertial particles in an incompressible fluid. Using the multiple-scale technique, we perform an analytical calculation which allows us to predict the dynamics of such particles;…
We consider a full set of harmonics for the Stokes wave in deep water in the absence of viscosity, and examine the role that higher harmonics play in modifying the classical Benjamin-Feir instability. Using a representation of the wave…
The goal of this work is to investigate particle motions beneath unidirectional, deep-water waves up to the third-order in nonlinearity. A particular focus is on the approximation known as Stokes drift, and how it relates to the particle…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
Shock wave theory was first studied for gas dynamics, for which shocks appear as compression waves. A shock wave is characterized as a sharp transition, even discontinuity in the flow. In fact, shocks appear in many different physical…
The shock wave instability induced when interacting with a small waviness on an interface was investigated analytically and numerically. The perturbation to the shock was phenomenologically treated assuming this as the consequence of the…
In this study, a new set of fifth-order Stokes wave solutions, incorporating the effects of a linear shear current, is derived by utilizing the perturbation method originally proposed for pure waves that was recently published. The present…
Two-dimensional Stokes flow with injection and suction is investigated through a second-order, perturbative mode-coupling approach. We examine the time-dependent disturbance of an initially circular interface separating two viscous fluids,…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
A weakly-nonlinear potential theory is developed for the description of deep penetrating pressure fields caused by single and colliding wave groups of collinear waves due to the second-order nonlinear interactions. The result is applied to…
We study the stability of Stokes waves on a free surface of an ideal fluid of infinite depth. For small steepness the modulational instability dominates the dynamics, but its growth rate is vastly surpassed for steeper waves by an…
The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…