相关论文: Refraction of a Gaussian Seaway
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
Extreme or rogue waves are large and unexpected waves appearing with higher probability than predicted by Gaussian statistics. Although their formation is explained by both linear and nonlinear wave propagation, nonlinearity has been…
Lagrangian measurements of tracer particle dispersion in stratified turbulence are presented from a large-scale experiment achieving both high buoyancy Reynolds numbers and low Froude numbers -- a regime characteristic of oceanic…
Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…
Microwave transport experiments have been performed in a quasi-two-dimensional resonator with randomly distributed scatterers, each mimicking an $r^{-2}$ repulsive potential. Analysis of both stationary wave fields and transient transport…
Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…
The analytical study of long wave scattering in a canal with a rapidly varying cross-section is presented. It is assumed that waves propagate on a stationary current with a given flow rate. Due to the fixed flow rate, the current speed is…
Lee waves generated by stratified flow over rough bottom topography in the ocean extract momentum and energy from the geostrophic flow, causing drag and enhancing turbulence and mixing in the interior ocean when they break. Inviscid linear…
Here we discuss some issues concerning the statistical properties of ocean surface waves. We show that, using the approach of weak turbulence theory, deviations from Gaussian statistics can be naturally included. In particular we discuss…
Using recordings of swell from pitch-and-roll buoys, we have reproduced the classic observations of long-range surface wave propagation originally made by Munk et al. (1963) using a triangular array of bottom pressure measurements. In the…
Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…
The transverse coherence functions (TCFs) of phase and amplitude fluctuations of a seismic wave are powerful to estimate the spatial distribution, length scales, and strength of random heterogeneities. However, TCFs have been formulated for…
Light manifests extreme localized waves with long-tail statistics that seem analogous to the still little understood rogue waves in oceans, and optical setups promise to become laboratory test-beds for their investigation. However, to date…
A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are…
Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…
Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…
Simulations are made of a probe particle diffusing through a complex fluid. Probe particle motions are described by the Mori-Zwanzig equation and Mori's orthogonal hierarchy of random forces scheme, subject to the approximation that the…
Local regions of anomalous particle dispersion, and intermittent events that occur in turbulent flows can greatly influence the global statistical description of the flow. These local behaviors can be identified and analyzed by comparing…
A Gaussian fluctuation formula is proved for linear statistics of complex random matrices in the case that the statistic is rotationally invariant. For a general linear statistic without this symmetry, Coulomb gas theory is used to predict…