相关论文: Understanding the tsunami with a simple model
The Whitham equation is a model for the evolution of small-amplitude, unidirectional waves of all wavelengths on shallow water. It has been shown to accurately model the evolution of waves in laboratory experiments. We compute…
Modern tsunami deposits are employed to estimate the overland flow characteristics of tsunamis. With the help of the overland-flow characteristics, the characteristics of the causative tsunami wave can be estimated. The understanding of…
We study the behavior of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves traveling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due…
We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…
Encyclopedic article covering shallow water wave models used in oceanography and atmospheric science. Sections: Definition of the Subject; Introduction and Historical Perspective; Completely Integrable Shallow Water Wave Equations; Shallow…
The present article is devoted to the influence of sediment layers on the process of tsunami generation. The main scope here is to demonstrate and especially quantify the effect of sedimentation on vertical displacements of the seabed due…
In this paper we consider an acoustic problem of wave propagation through a discontinuous medium. The problem is reduced to the dissipative wave equation with distributional dissipation. We show that this problem has a so-called very weak…
We report laboratory experiments on surface waves generated in a uniform fluid layer whose bottom undergoes a sudden upward motion. Simultaneous measurements of the free-surface deformation and the fluid velocity field are focused on the…
Shock waves are supersonic disturbances propagating in a fluid and giving rise to dissipation and drag. Weak shocks, i.e., those of small amplitude, can be well described within the hydrodynamic approximation. On the other hand, strong…
A novel tool for tsunami wave modelling is presented. This tool has the potential of being used for operational purposes: indeed, the numerical code \VOLNA is able to handle the complete life-cycle of a tsunami (generation, propagation and…
Considered here are Boussinesq systems of equations of surface water wave theory over a variable bottom. A simplified such Boussinesq system is derived and solved numerically by the standard Galerkin-finite element method. We study by…
In the linear approximation, we study a one-dimensional problem of the reflectionless wave propagation on a surface of a shallow duct with the spatially varying water depth, duct width, and current. We show that both global and bounded…
Tsunami deposits are recordings of tsunami events that contain information about flow conditions. Deciphering quantitative information from tsunami deposits is especially important for analyzing paleo-tsunami events in which deposits…
Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…
A spectrogram of a ship wake is a heat map that visualises the time-dependent frequency spectrum of surface height measurements taken at a single point as the ship travels by. Spectrograms are easy to compute and, if properly interpreted,…
We presented numerical simulation of long waves, interacting with arrays of emergent cylinders inside regularly spaced patches, representing discontinues patchy coastal vegetation. We employed the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive…
We review the theory of wave interaction in finite and infinite depth. Both of these strands of water-wave research begin with the deterministic governing equations for water waves, from which simplified equations can be derived to model…
We give an elementary proof of uniqueness for the integral curve starting from the vertical axis in the phase-plane analysis of the recent model [A. Constantin, R.S. Johnson, Propagation of very long water waves, with vorticity, over…
Predicting tsunami impacts at remote coasts largely relies on tsunami en-route measurements in an open ocean. In this work, these measurements are used to generate instant tsunami predictions in deep water and near the coast. The…
The vertical component (Z) of the geomagnetic field observed by ground-based observatories of the INTERMAGNET network has been used to analyze the effects of the movement of electrically conducting sea water through the geomagnetic field…