相关论文: Non-homogeneous approximation for the kurtosis evo…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…
The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
We study statistical properties after a sudden episode of wind for water waves propagating in one direction. A wave with random initial conditions is propagated using a forced-damped higher order Nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLS).…
Here, we show through a statistical analysis that rogue waves in broadband non-breaking seas are spatially asymmetric. In addition to the top-down asymmetry due to nonlinear effects, we show that the two troughs adjacent to the rogue wave…
The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solutions of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The…
By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…
Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…
The issue of rogue wave lifetimes is addressed in this study, which helps to detail the general picture of this dangerous oceanic phenomenon. The direct numerical simulations of irregular wave ensembles are performed to obtain the complete…
We investigate how the presence of a vertically sheared current affects wave statistics, including the probability of rogue waves, and apply it to a real-world case using measured spectral and shear current data from the Mouth of the…
Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…
Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…
Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…
Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…
We study the formation of extreme events in incoherent systems described by envelope equations, such as the Nonliner Schr\"odinger equation. We derive an identity that relates the evolution of the kurtosis (a measure of the relevance of the…
Extreme or rogue waves are large and unexpected waves appearing with higher probability than predicted by Gaussian statistics. Although their formation is explained by both linear and nonlinear wave propagation, nonlinearity has been…