相关论文: An experimental comparison of velocities underneat…
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form steep waves,…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
By numerical simulation of exact equations of motion (in terms of conformal variables) for planar non-stationary potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over a strongly non-uniform bottom profile, the effect of nonlinear…
The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…
The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…
The weakly nonlinear dynamics of the free surface of a dielectric liquid in an electric field directed tangentially to the unperturbed boundary is investigated numerically. Within the framework of the strong field model, when the effects of…
Observations show that maximally-steep breaking water wave crest speeds are much slower than expected. We report a wave-crest slowdown mechanism generic to unsteady propagating deep water wave groups. Our fully nonlinear computations show…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is…
A weakly-nonlinear potential theory is developed for the description of deep penetrating pressure fields caused by single and colliding wave groups of collinear waves due to the second-order nonlinear interactions. The result is applied to…
The analysis of nonlinear wave equations has experienced a dramatic growth in the last ten years or so. The key factor in this has been the transition from linear analysis, first to the study of bilinear and multilinear wave interactions,…
Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are complex and may involve wave breaking, which has made these loads difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of…
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…
The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…
Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…
Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…
This paper describes the results from a numerical estimation of the force exerted by long surface waves on a fixed and partially immersed rectangular structure. The topic is connected with the need of making decisions on the design,…