Related papers: A Continuous Non-ergodic Theory for the Wave Set-u…
This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…
We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…
We rigorously calculate the propagation and scattering of electromagnetic waves by rectangular and random arrays of dielectric cylinders in a uniform medium. For regular arrays, the band structures are computed and complete bandgaps are…
Here I present a general formulation of water wave propagation and scattering over topographical bottoms. A simple equation is found and is compared with existing theories. As an application, the theory is extended to the case of water…
Oceanic internal tides and other inertia-gravity waves propagate in an energetic turbulent flow whose lengthscales are similar to the wavelengths. Advection and refraction by this flow cause the scattering of the waves, redistributing their…
Wave interaction theory can be used as a tool to understand and predict instability in a variety of homogeneous and stratified shear flows. It is however, most often limited to piecewise-linear profiles of the shear layer background…
We extend the dynamic van der Waals model introduced by A. Onuki [Phys. Rev. Lett. 94, 054501 (2005)] to the description of cohesive granular flows under a plane shear to study their hydrodynamic instabilities. Numerically solving the…
In this study, a numerical model preserving a class of nontrivial steady-state solutions is proposed to predict waves propagation and waves run-up on coastal zones. The numerical model is based on the Saint-Venant system with source terms…
Weakly nonlinear internal wave-wave interaction is a key mechanism that cascades energy from large to small scales, leading to ocean turbulence and mixing. Oceans typically have a non-uniform density stratification profile; moreover,…
The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…
The present study concerns the numerical modeling of sea-wave instability under the effect of logarithmic-wind profile in hurricane conditions. The central point of the study is the calculation of the wave growth rate, which is proportional…
The present study concerns the numerical modeling of sea-wave instability under the effect of logarithmic-wind profile in hurricane conditions. The central point of the study is the calculation of the wave growth rate, which is proportional…
We investigate a hydrodynamic equation system which - with some approximation - is capable to describe the tsunami propagation in the open ocean with the time-dependent self-similar Ansatz. We found analytic solutions how the wave height…
Sedimentation of particles in the ocean leads to inhomogeneous horizontal distributions at depth, even if the release process is homogeneous. We study this phenomenon considering a horizontal sheet of sinking particles immersed in an…
We investigate analytically the linearized water wave radiation problem for an oscillating submerged point source in an inviscid shear flow with a free surface. A constant depth is taken into account and the shear flow increases linearly…