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We investigate the interaction of waves with surface flows by considering the full set of conserved quantities, subtle but important surface elevation changes induced by wave packets and by directly considering the necessary forces to…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
A stochastic approach is implemented to address the problem of a marine structure exposed to water wave impacts. The focus is on (i) the average frequency of wave impacts, and (ii) the related probability distribution of impact kinematic…
The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…
Turbulent water motions are important for the exchange of momentum, heat, nutrients, and suspended matter including sediments in the deep-sea that is generally stably stratified in density. To maintain ocean-density stratification, an…
The Alber equation is a moment equation for the nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation, formally used in ocean engineering to investigate the stability of stationary and homogeneous sea states in terms of their power spectra. In this work we…
We present an arbitrary-order spectral element method for general-purpose simulation of non-overturning water waves, described by fully nonlinear potential theory. The method can be viewed as a high-order extension of the classical finite…
The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…
Holm (Proc. Roy. Soc 2015) introduced a variational framework for stochastically parametrising unresolved scales of hydrodynamic motion. This variational framework preserves fundamental features of fluid dynamics, such as Kelvin's…
Uniform Shear Flow is a prototype nonequilibrium state admitting detailed study at both the macroscopic and microscopic levels via theory and computer simulation. It is shown that the hydrodynamic equations for this state have a long…
Energy transmission over long distances by waves is a key mechanism for many natural processes. This possibility arises when an inhomogeneous medium is arranged in such a manner that it enables a certain type of wave to propagate with…
A~machine learning framework is developed to estimate ocean-wave conditions. By supervised training of machine learning models on many thousands of iterations of a physics-based wave model, accurate representations of significant wave…
A method is proposed for finding the wave field components which are weakly sensitive to the sound speed perturbation in the ocean acoustic waveguides. Such a component is formed by a narrow beam of rays whose spread in vertical direction,…
We study artificial neural networks with nonlinear waves as a computing reservoir. We discuss universality and the conditions to learn a dataset in terms of output channels and nonlinearity. A feed-forward three-layer model, with an…
Predicting ocean wave behavior is challenging due to the difficulty in choosing suitable numerical models among many with varying capabilities. This review examines the development and performance of numerical wave models in coastal…
In this study we discuss the shapes and statistics of the rogue (freak) waves emerging due to wave-current interactions. With this purpose, we use a simple governing equation which is a nonlinear Schrodinger equation (NLSE) extended by R.…
In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process $\beta(x,…
We describe a proof-of-concept development and application of a phase averaging technique to the nonlinear rotating shallow water equations on the sphere, discretised using compatible finite element methods. Phase averaging consists of…
This work analyzes the dynamics of inhomogeneous, magnetically focused high-intensity beams of charged particles. While for homogeneous beams the whole system oscillates with a single frequency, any inhomogeneity leads to propagating…