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It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-02-22 M. B. Erdogan , N. Tzirakis , V. Zharnitsky

In periodic wave motion, particles beneath the wave undergo a drift in the direction of wave propagation, a phenomenon known as Stokes drift. While extensive research has been conducted on Stokes drift in water wave flows, its counterpart…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-18 Luiz P. Palacio , Marcelo V. Flamarion , Tao Gao , Roberto Ribeiro-Jr

Weak Wave Turbulence is a powerful theory to predict statistical observables of diverse relevant physical phenomena, such as ocean waves, magnetohydrodynamics and nonlinear optics. The theory is based upon an asymptotic closure permitted in…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2016-07-13 Sergio Chibbaro , Christophe Josserand

We study the instability of standing-wave solutions $e^{i\omega t}\phi_{\omega}(x)$ to the inhomogeneous nonlinear Schr\"{o}dinger equation $$i\phi_t=-\triangle\phi+|x|^2\phi-|x|^b|\phi|^{p-1}\phi, \qquad \in\mathbb{R}^N, $$ where $ b > 0 $…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2010-10-28 Jianqing Chen , Yue Liu

Solutions to the stochastic wave equation on the unit sphere are approximated by spectral methods. Strong, weak, and almost sure convergence rates for the proposed numerical schemes are provided and shown to depend only on the smoothness of…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-12-06 David Cohen , Annika Lang

We prove that the flow map associated to a model equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude in shallow water is not uniformly continuous in the Sobolev space $H^s$ with $s>3/2$. The main idea is to consider two suitable sequences of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2013-12-16 N. Duruk Mutlubas , A. Geyer , B. V. Matioc

We study dispersion properties of linear surface gravity waves propagating in an arbitrary direction atop a current profile of depth-varying magnitude using a piecewise linear approximation, and develop a robust numerical framework for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen

Wave propagation problems have many applications in physics and engineering, and the stochastic effects are important in accurately modeling them due to the uncertainty of the media. This paper considers and analyzes a fully discrete finite…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2021-06-30 Yukun Li , Shuonan Wu , Yulong Xing

Real world water waves often propagate on current. And, the measurement of waves and current is an important task for coastal and marine engineers. Modern marine measurement technologies (i.e. unmanned autonomous vehicles, drones) often…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-31 David M. Kouskoulas , Yaron Toledo

We investigate the generation of standing waves in the model provided by the inhomogeneous telegraph equation under different forcing conditions. We show that sustained standing waves arise only for a specific forcing that is spatially…

Classical Physics · Physics 2026-04-21 José Francisco Pérez-Barragán

Using the inverse spectral theory of the nonlinear Schrodinger (NLS) equation we correlate the development of rogue waves in oceanic sea states characterized by the JONSWAP spectrum with the proximity to homoclinic solutions of the NLS…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2007-05-23 Constance Schober , Alvaro Islas

We study modulational stability and instability in the Whitham equation, combining the dispersion relation of water waves and a nonlinearity of the shallow water equations, and modified to permit the effects of surface tension and constant…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2015-08-28 Vera Mikyoung Hur , Mathew A. Johnson

In this paper, we show that a revised convolutional recurrent neural network (CRNN) can decrease, by orders of magnitude, the time needed for the phase-resolved prediction of waves in a spatiotemporal domain of a nonlinear dispersive wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-08-04 Fazlolah Mohaghegh , Mohammad-Reza Alam , Jayathi Murthy

Argo floats measure seawater temperature and salinity in the upper 2,000 m of the global ocean. Statistical analysis of the resulting spatio-temporal dataset is challenging due to its nonstationary structure and large size. We propose…

Applications · Statistics 2018-12-31 Mikael Kuusela , Michael L. Stein

Power grids, road maps, and river streams are examples of infrastructural networks which are highly vulnerable to external perturbations. An abrupt local change of load (voltage, traffic density, or water level) might propagate in a…

Physics and Society · Physics 2014-05-23 Enys Mones , Nuno A. M. Araújo , Tamás Vicsek , Hans J. Herrmann

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Anna Kokorina , Efim Pelinovsky

Particles such as microplastics and phytoplankton suspended in the water column in the natural environment are often subject to the action of surface gravity waves. By modelling such anisotropic particles as small spheroids that slowly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-08-03 Nimish Pujara , Jean-Luc Thiffeault

We study the stability of Stokes waves on a free surface of an ideal fluid of infinite depth. For small steepness the modulational instability dominates the dynamics, but its growth rate is vastly surpassed for steeper waves by an…

This paper presents specific features of solitary wave dynamics within the framework of the Ostrovsky equation with variable coefficients in relation to surface and internal waves in a rotating ocean with a variable bottom topography. For…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2019-03-25 Y. A. Stepanyants

We introduce a new model equation for Stokes gravity waves based on conformal transformations of Euler's equations. The local version of the model equation is relevant for dynamics of shallow water waves. It allows us to characterize the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-12-03 Spencer Locke , Dmitry E. Pelinovsky
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