Related papers: A Continuous Non-ergodic Theory for the Wave Set-u…
The problem of submarine sediment slide which generates the surface water waves is considered. To simulate numerically the landslide motion it is used the method which permits to take into account detailed rheological properties of slide…
Interpretation of random wave field on a shallow water in terms of Fourier spectra is not adequate, when wave amplitudes are not infinitesimally small. A nonlinearity of wave fields leads to the harmonic interactions and random variation of…
Fluid discontinuities, such as shock fronts and vortex sheets, can reflect waves and become unstable to corrugation. Analytical calculations of these phenomena are tractable in the simplest cases only, while their numerical simulations are…
We consider the problem of short-term prediction of rare, extreme water waves in unidirectional fields, a critical topic for ocean structures and naval operations. One possible mechanism for the occurrence of such rare, unusually-intense…
We consider a shallow water model in a homogenization framework. For periodic topographies, Craig, Lannes and Sulem have established a consistency result under some non-resonance conditions. In the present contribution, we significantly…
Non-stationarity is the rule in the atmospheric boundary layer (ABL). Under such conditions, the flow may experience departures from equilibrium with the underlying surface stress, misalignment of shear stresses and strain rates, and…
A computational strategy based on large deviation theory (LDT) is used to study the anomalous statistical features of turbulent surface waves propagating past an abrupt depth change created via a step in the bottom topography. The dynamics…
Projections of extreme sea levels (ESLs) are critical for managing coastal risks, but are made complicated by deep uncertainties. One key uncertainty is the choice of model structure used to estimate coastal hazards. Differences in model…
This study analyzes steady periodic hydroelastic waves propagating on the water surface of finite depth beneath nonlinear elastic membranes. Unlike previous work \cite{BaldiT,BaldiT1,Toland,Toland1}, our formulation accommodates rotational…
Sea-level rise and associated flood hazards pose severe risks to the millions of people globally living in coastal zones. Models representing coastal adaptation and impacts are important tools to inform the design of strategies to manage…
Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…
The ultimate goal of a sound theory of turbulence in fluids is to close in a rational way the Reynolds equations, namely to express the tensor of turbulent stress as a function of the time average of the velocity field. Based on the idea…
Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are complex and may involve wave breaking, which has made these loads difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of…
The procedure of comprehensive analysis of instability of current sheathes in a wide range of frequencies and wave lengths in the electrically neutral approximation has been developed. This comprehensive analysis of instability is based on…
We develop a mean-field model to examine the stability of a `quasi-2D suspension' of elongated particles embedded within a viscous membrane. This geometry represents several biological and synthetic settings, and we reveal mechanisms by…
We generalize the invariant imbedding theory of the wave propagation and derive new invariant imbedding equations for the propagation of arbitrary number of coupled waves of any kind in arbitrarily-inhomogeneous stratified media, where the…
In this article we provide formulations of energy flux and radiation stress consistent with the scaling regime of the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation. These quantities can be used to describe the shoaling of cnoidal waves approaching a…
In this paper, the development of a mathematical method is presented to explore spatially non-uniform phases with no long-range order in mathematical models of first order phase transitions. We use essential results regarding the…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are…