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Extreme sea level estimates are fundamental for mitigating against coastal flooding as they provide insight for defence engineering. As the global climate changes, rising sea levels combined with increases in storm intensity and frequency…

Methodology · Statistics 2022-08-02 Eleanor D'Arcy , Jonathan A. Tawn

Unstable particles rarely feature in conjunction with integrability in 1+1D quantum field theory. However, the family of homogenous sine-Gordon models provides a rare example where both stable and unstable bound states are present in the…

High Energy Physics - Theory · Physics 2022-04-27 Olalla A. Castro-Alvaredo , Cecilia De Fazio , Benjamin Doyon , Aleksandra A. Ziółkowska

At singular points of a wave field, where the amplitude vanishes, the phase may become singular and wavefront dislocation may occur. In this Letter, we investigate for wave fields in one spatial dimension the appearance of these essentially…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2019-08-20 N. Karjanto , E. van Groesen

Acoustic wave fields propagating long ranges through the ocean are refracted by the inhomogeneities in the ocean's sound speed profile. Intuitively, for a given acoustic source frequency, the inhomogeneities become ineffective at refracting…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Katherine C. Hegewisch , Nicholas R. Cerruti , Steven Tomsovic

We analyse an algorithm of transition between Cauchy problems for second-order wave equations and first-order symmetric hyperbolic systems in case the coefficients as well as the data are non-smooth, even allowing for regularity below the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2012-02-03 Clemens Hanel , Günther Hörmann , Christian Spreitzer , Roland Steinbauer

A coupled BBM system of equations is studied in the situation of water waves propagating over decreasing fluid depth. A conservation equation for mass and a wave breaking criterion valid in the Boussinesq approximation is found. A Fourier…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-01-27 Amutha Senthilkumar

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-12-05 Bruno Simon , Christos E. Papoutsellis , Michel Benoit , Marissa L. Yates

We study the focusing inhomogeneous nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation $$ i\partial_t u + \Delta u = -|x|^b |u|^{p-1}u ,\quad (t,x)\in (0,\infty)\times\mathbb{R}^N, $$ with $b>0$ and $p>1$. Due to the spatial growth of the nonlinearity,…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-02-10 Mohamed Majdoub , Tarek Saanouni

Understanding how statistical equilibrium can occur in out-of-equilibrium systems is of paramount interest, as it would enable the use of statistical mechanics tools to these systems. Here, we report the first experimental evidence of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-10 Marlone Vernet , Eric Falcon

We consider the problem of large wave prediction in two-dimensional water waves. Such waves form due to the synergistic effect of dispersive mixing of smaller wave groups and the action of localized nonlinear wave interactions that leads to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-04-26 Mohammad Farazmand , Themistoklis P. Sapsis

General phenomenological theory of hydrodynamic waves in regions with smooth loss of convexity of isentropes is developed based on the fact that for most media these regions in p-V plane are anomalously small. Accordingly the waves are…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-07 Michael I. Tribelsky , Sergei I. Anisimov

The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Iskander Abroug , Nizar Abcha , Denys Dutykh , Armelle Jarno , François Marin

The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-30 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Santu Das , Michael H. Meylan

A phenomenological model of parametric surface waves (Faraday waves) is introduced in the limit of small viscous dissipation that accounts for the coupling between surface motion and slowly varying streaming and large scale flows (mean…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2009-11-10 J. M. Vega , S. Ruediger , J. Vinals

The present contribution contains a quite extensive theory for the stability analysis of plane periodic waves of general Schr{\"o}dinger equations. On one hand, we put the one-dimensional theory, or in other words the stability theory for…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-05-19 Corentin Audiard , L Rodrigues

A weakly nonlinear theory has been proposed and developed for calculating the energy- transfer rate to individual waves in a group. It is shown what portion of total energy- transfer rate, over the envelope of wave group, affects individual…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-04-19 S. G. Sajjadi , J. C. R. Hunt , F. Drullion

Finding the distribution of vibro-acoustic energy in complex built-up structures in the mid-to-high frequency regime is a difficult task. In particular, structures with large variation of local wavelengths and/or characteristic scales pose…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-20 Dmitrii N Maksimov , Gregor Tanner

The analysis of wave propagation problems in linear damped media must take into account both propagation features and attenuation process. To perform accurate numerical investigations by the finite differences or finite element method, one…

Classical Physics · Physics 2009-01-26 Jean-François Semblat , J. J. Brioist

Reliable dynamic sea level forecasts are hindered by numerous sources of uncertainty on daily-to-seasonal timescales (1-180 days) due to atmospheric boundary conditions and internal ocean variability. Studies have demonstrated that certain…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-07-22 Andrew Brettin , Laure Zanna , Elizabeth A. Barnes