Related papers: A Continuous Non-ergodic Theory for the Wave Set-u…
Irregular, unidirectional surface water waves incident on model ice in an ice tank are used as a physical model of ocean surface wave interactions with sea ice. Results are given for an experiment consisting of three tests, starting with a…
We study experimentally, in a large-scale basin, the propagation of unidirectional deep water gravity waves stochastically modulated in phase. We observe the emergence of nonlinear localized structures that evolve on a stochastic wave…
The Alber equation is a phase-averaged second-moment model for the statistics of a sea state, which recently has been attracting renewed attention. We extend it in two ways: firstly, we derive a generalized Alber system starting from a…
We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and…
Correct prediction of particle transport by surface waves is crucial in many practical applications such as search and rescue or salvage operations and pollution tracking and clean-up efforts. Recent results have indicated transport by…
We consider several different bidirectional Whitham equations that have recently appeared in the literature. Each of these models combine the full two-way dispersion relation from the incompressible Euler equations with a canonical shallow…
A stochastic model for nondemolition continuous measurement in a quantum system is given. It is shown that the posterior dynamics, including a continuous collapse of the wave function, is described by a nonlinear stochastic wave equation.…
Although extreme or freak waves are repeatedly measured in the oceans, their origin is largely unknown. The interaction of different water waves is seen as one reason for their emergence. One way to consider nonlinear waves in deep water is…
This paper introduces a new algorithm to improve the accuracy of numerical phase-averaging in oscillatory, multiscale, differential equations. Phase-averaging is a timestepping method which averages a mapped variable to remove highly…
We develop a statistical theory of waveform shaping of incident waves that aim to efficiently deliver energy at weakly lossy targets which are embedded inside chaotic enclosures. Our approach utilizes the universal features of chaotic…
The focus of our work is dispersive, second-order effective model describing the low-frequency wave motion in heterogeneous (e.g.~functionally-graded) media endowed with periodic microstructure. For this class of quasi-periodic medium…
We propose a generalized finite element method for the strongly damped wave equation with highly varying coefficients. The proposed method is based on the localized orthogonal decomposition introduced and is designed to handle independent…
The ocean wave distribution in a specific region of space and time is described by its sea state. Knowledge about the sea states a ship encounters on a journey can be used to assess various parameters of risk and wear associated with the…
Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…
Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…
The behaviour of internal waves propagating in a background shear flow is studied in the case where the direction of shear is orthogonal to gravity. Ray-tracing theory is used to predict properties of the wave state at locations where…
We experimentally examine a laser-induced underwater shock wave with a special attention to pressure impulse, the time integral of pressure evolution. %total pressure variation associated with the shock wave. Plasma formation, shock-wave…
Observations show that maximally-steep breaking water wave crest speeds are much slower than expected. We report a wave-crest slowdown mechanism generic to unsteady propagating deep water wave groups. Our fully nonlinear computations show…
A theoretical model is used to study water waves propagating into and through a region containing thin floating ice, for ice covers transitioning from consolidated (large floe sizes) to fully broken (small floe sizes). The degree of…
We examine the linear stability of a shear flow driven by wind stress at the free surface and rotation at the lower boundary, mimicking oceanic flows influenced by surface winds and rotation of Earth. The linearised eigenvalue problem is…