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The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-14 Bengt Eliasson , Padma K. Shukla

Waves propagating through weakly disordered smooth linear media undergo a universal phenomenon called branched flow. Branched flow has been observed and studied experimentally in various systems by considering coherent waves. Recent…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-04-09 Josselin Garnier , Antonio Picozzi , Theo Torres

The wave spectral properties in the centimeter to decameter (cmDm) wavelength range is of great interest to ocean remote sensing and studies of ocean surface processes including the surface roughness, air-sea energy and momentum exchanges,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-20 Paul A. Hwang

We present a systematic derivation of the wave kinetic equation describing the dynamics of a statistically inhomogeneous incoherent wave field in a medium with a weak quadratic nonlinearity. The medium can be nonstationary and…

Optics · Physics 2018-03-30 D. E. Ruiz , M. E. Glinsky , I. Y. Dodin

Here we investigate the propagation and scattering of surface water waves by arrays of bottom-mounted cylindrical steps. Both periodic and random arrangements of the steps are considered. The wave transmission through the arrays is computed…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-10 Liang-Shan Chen , Chao-Hsien Guo , Zhen Ye , Xin Sun

We attempt to gain some insight into the modeling of the generation of internal waves produced by submarines traveling in the littoral regions of the ocean with the use of high fidelity numerical simulations. These numerical simulations are…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-10-08 James W. Rottman , Kyle A. Brucker , Douglas Dommermuth , Dave Broutman

The kinetic theory of soliton gases (SG) is used to develop a solvable model for wave-mean field interaction in integrable turbulence. The waves are stochastic soliton ensembles that scatter off a critically dense SG or soliton condensate…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2025-08-18 T. Congy , G. A. El , M. A. Hoefer

Effects of wave-wave interactions on ocean swell are studied. Results of extensive simulations of swell evolution within the duration-limited setup for the kinetic Hasselmann equation at long times up to $10^6$ seconds are presented. Basic…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-06-28 Sergei I. Badulin , Vladimir E. Zakharov

This is a study of two-dimensional steady periodic travelling waves on the surface of an infinitely deep irrotational ocean, when the top streamline is in contact with a membrane which has a nonlinear response to stretching and bending, and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-05-06 Pietro Baldi , John F. Toland

We study linear damped and viscoelastic wave equations evolving on a bounded domain. For both models, we assume that waves are subject to an inhomogeneous Neumann boundary condition on a portion of the domain's boundary. The analysis of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-10-15 Türker Özsarı , İdem Susuzlu

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-13 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Bertrand Chapron , J. Thomas Farrar , Luc Deike

Sea surface height observations provided by satellite altimetry since 1993 show a rising rate (3.4 mm/year) for global mean sea level. While on average, sea level has risen 10 cm over the last 30 years, there is considerable regional…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2023-10-10 Saumya Sinha , John Fasullo , R. Steven Nerem , Claire Monteleoni

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban

We study the behavior of shallow water waves over periodically-varying bathymetry, based on the first-order hyperbolic Saint-Venant equations. Although solutions of this system are known to generally exhibit wave breaking, numerical…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-02-06 David I. Ketcheson , Lajos Lóczi , Giovanni Russo

Permanent gravity waves propagating in deep water, spanning amplitudes from infinitesimal to their theoretical limiting values, remain a classical yet challenging problem due to its inherent nonlinear complexities. Traditional analytical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-11-14 Chong Lin , Shijun Liao

In geophysical and plasma contexts, zonal flows are well known to arise out of turbulence. We elucidate the transition from statistically homogeneous turbulence without zonal flows to statistically inhomogeneous turbulence with steady zonal…

Plasma Physics · Physics 2015-03-25 Jeffrey B. Parker

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not…

The evolution of the amplitude of two nonlinearly interacting waves is considered, via a set of coupled nonlinear Schroedinger-type equations. The dynamical profile is determined by the wave dispersion laws (i.e. the group velocities and…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2009-11-11 I. Kourakis , P. K. Shukla

A major challenge in next-generation industrial applications is to improve numerical analysis by quantifying uncertainties in predictions. In this work we present a formulation of a fully nonlinear and dispersive potential flow water wave…

Computational Physics · Physics 2016-04-15 Daniele Bigoni , Allan P. Engsig-Karup , Claes Eskilsson