Related papers: Long wave runup on random beaches
Recent studies have pointed out the importance of the basal friction on the dynamics of granular flows. We present experimental results on the influence of the roughness of the inclined plane on the dynamics of a monodisperse dry granular…
Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groins, breakwaters and various other structures. We try to address this…
Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groynes, breakwaters and various other structures. We address this problem…
Molecular dynamics simulations are used to investigate the influence of molecular-scale surface roughness on the slip behavior in thin liquid films. The slip length increases almost linearly with the shear rate for atomically smooth rigid…
Solutions to the stochastic wave equation on the unit sphere are approximated by spectral methods. Strong, weak, and almost sure convergence rates for the proposed numerical schemes are provided and shown to depend only on the smoothness of…
Statistically simulated time series of wave parameters are required for many coastal and offshore engineering applications, often at the resolution of approximately one hour. Various studies have relied on autoregressive moving-average…
Direct numerical simulation is used to study turbulent flow over irregular rough surfaces in the periodic minimal channel configuration. The generation of irregular rough surface is based on a random algorithm, in which the power spectrum…
By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…
In offshore engineering design, nonlinear wave models are often used to propagate stochastic waves from an input boundary to the location of an offshore structure. Each wave realization is typically characterized by a high-dimensional input…
Significant wave height forecasting is a key problem in ocean data analytics. This task affects several maritime operations, such as managing the passage of vessels or estimating the energy production from waves. In this work, we focus on…
Historically the finite volume methods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically…
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up…
This paper investigates the geometric inverse problem of recovering the bottom shape from surface measurements of water waves. Using the general water-waves system on a bounded subdomain of the fluid domain, we address this inverse problem,…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
The broaching that follows the surf-riding is a dangerous phenomenon that can lead to the capsizing of a vessel due to its violent yaw motion. Most of the previous studies on surf-riding phenomena in irregular waves have been conducted by…
The objective of the current study is to utilize an innovative method called 'change probabilities' for describing fracture roughness. In order to detect and visualize anisotropy of rock joint surfaces, the roughness of one-dimensional…
Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…
Acoustic scattering from layered seafloors exhibits dependence on both the mean geoacoustic layering, as well as the roughness properties of each layer. Several theoretical treatments of this environment exist, including the small roughness…
Wall-roughness induces extra drag in wall-bounded turbulent flows. Mapping any given roughness geometry to its fluid dynamic behaviour has been hampered by the lack of accurate and direct measurements of skin-friction drag. Here the…
Storm surges cause coastal inundations due to the setup of the water surface resulting from atmospheric pressure, surface winds and breaking waves. The latter is particularly difficult to be accounted for. For instance, it was observed that…