Related papers: Long wave runup on random beaches
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
An algorithm to compute forces at the sea bed from a finite element solution to the mild slope wave equation is devised in this work. The algorithm is best considered as consisting of two logical parts: The first is concerned with the…
Stochastic roughness is widespread feature of natural surfaces and is an inherent by-product of most fabrication techniques. In view of rapid development of microfluidics, the important question is how this inevitable evil affects the…
In this work, we develop a modelling framework for granular flows based on the shallow water moment equations on inclined planes. Under the assumption of a polynomial expansion of the velocity field, the model extends the classical shallow…
Rough rocky seabeds dominate world's coastlines, making accurate modeling of wave transformation in such environments essential for understanding coastal processes and hazards. Wave breaking and friction are critical drivers of wave…
Accurate information on waves and storm surges is essential to understand coastal hazards that are expected to increase in view of global warming and rising sea levels. Despite the recent advancement in development and application of…
A coupled BBM system of equations is studied in the situation of water waves propagating over decreasing fluid depth. A conservation equation for mass and a wave breaking criterion valid in the Boussinesq approximation is found. A Fourier…
We report results of lattice Boltzmann simulations of a high-speed drainage of liquid films squeezed between a smooth sphere and a randomly rough plane. A significant decrease in the hydrodynamic resistance force as compared with that…
Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…
Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal…
In this paper, we consider convex stochastic optimization problems arising in machine learning applications (e.g., risk minimization) and mathematical statistics (e.g., maximum likelihood estimation). There are two main approaches to solve…
We develop a stochastic parametrization, based on a `simple' deterministic model for the dynamics of steady longshore currents, that produces ensembles that are statistically consistent with field observations of these currents. Unlike…
Rough volatility models are continuous time stochastic volatility models where the volatility process is driven by a fractional Brownian motion with the Hurst parameter smaller than half, and have attracted much attention since a seminal…
In this article, we introduce and analyse some statistical properties of a class of models of random landscapes of the form ${\cal H}({\bf x})=\frac{\mu}{2}{\bf x}^2+\sum_{l=1}^M \phi_l({\bf k}_l\cdot {\bf x}), \, \, {\bf x}\in…
I report large-scale Monte Carlo studies of a one-dimensional height-restricted stochastic sandpile using the quasistationary simulation method. Results for systems of up to 50 000 sites yield estimates for critical exponents that differ…
This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem…
The dewetting of thin nanofilms is significantly impacted by thermal fluctuations, liquid-solid slip, and disjoining pressure, which can be described by lubrication equations augmented by appropriately scaled noise terms, known as…
Accurate ocean surface wave knowledge is crucial for ship design. With the significant advancements of model physics and numerical resources, the recent numerical wave hindcast data has a potential to provide environmental conditions for…
This work presents an analysis of ocean wave data including rogue waves. A stochastic approach based on the theory of Markov processes is applied. With this analysis we achieve a characterization of the scale dependent complexity of ocean…
We compare two methods for making predictions of the climatological distribution of the number of hurricanes making landfall along short sections of the North American coastline. The first method uses local data, and the second method uses…