Related papers: Long wave runup on random beaches
This paper presents specific features of solitary wave dynamics within the framework of the Ostrovsky equation with variable coefficients in relation to surface and internal waves in a rotating ocean with a variable bottom topography. For…
The physics of swash i.e. a layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken is complicated and intriguing. It includes perplexed hydrodynamic and sediment transport events. In our paper we address to the…
The intensification and increased frequency of weather extremes is emerging as one of the most important aspects of climate change. We use Monte Carlo simulation to understand and predict the consequences of variations in trends (i.e.,…
The influence of surface roughness on transition to turbulence in a Mach 4.5 boundary layer is studied using direct numerical simulations. Transition is initiated by the nonlinearly most dangerous inflow disturbance, which causes the…
Surface roughness is an important quantity to many engineering and precision manufacturing disciplines. In this paper we investigate the problem of estimating the root-mean-square roughness of a sample by passive linear optical methods. By…
In this paper, we study the flow physics underlying the recently developed remote sensing capability of detecting oceanic microplastics, which is based on the measurable surface roughness reduction induced by the presence of microplastics…
In this study, a numerical model preserving a class of nontrivial steady-state solutions is proposed to predict waves propagation and waves run-up on coastal zones. The numerical model is based on the Saint-Venant system with source terms…
An adjoint based technique is applied to a shallow water model in order to estimate the influence of the model's parameters on the solution. Among parameters the bottom topography, initial conditions, boundary conditions on rigid…
We consider the statistics of extreme ship motions in a nonlinear irregular wave field. While an accurate computation is possible by using a full Monte-Carlo method to cover all individual wave conditions, the computational cost may become…
Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…
In this paper we present an experimental study of the long surface wave instability that can develop when a granular material flows down a rough inclined plane. The threshold and the dispersion relation of the instability are precisely…
Robust estimators and different filtering techniques are proposed and their impact on the determination of a wide range of turbulence quantities is analysed. High-frequency water level measurements in a stepped spillway are used as a case…
This study examines the effects of surface topography on the flow and performance of a Self-Propelled Swimming (SPS) body. We consider a thin flat plate with an egg-carton roughness texture undergoing prescribed undulatory swimming…
Although extreme or freak waves are repeatedly measured in the oceans, their origin is largely unknown. The interaction of different water waves is seen as one reason for their emergence. One way to consider nonlinear waves in deep water is…
Surface roughness elements are commonly used in wind tunnel testing to hasten the laminar-turbulent transition of the boundary layer in model tests to mimic the aerodynamic effects present in the full-scale application. These devices can…
Direct numerical simulation (DNS) of flow in a turbulent channel with a random rough wall is performed at $Re_{\tau}=400$ and $600$. The roughness geometry corresponds to the experiments of Flack and Schultz (personal communication). The…
A method of modifying the roughness of soda-lime glass spheres is presented, with the purpose of tuning inter-particle friction. The effect of chemical etching on the surface topography and the bulk frictional properties of grains is…
This paper shows in detail the application of a new stochastic approach for the characterization of surface height profiles, which is based on the theory of Markov processes. With this analysis we achieve a characterization of the scale…
Estimating the density of a continuous random variable X has been studied extensively in statistics, in the setting where n independent observations of X are given a priori and one wishes to estimate the density from that. Popular methods…
The issue of accounting of the wave breaking phenomenon in direct numerical simulations of oceanic waves is discussed. It is emphasized that this problem is crucial for the deterministic description of waves, and also for the dynamical…