Related papers: Long wave runup on random beaches
The present study concerns the numerical modeling of sea-wave instability under the effect of logarithmic-wind profile in hurricane conditions. The central point of the study is the calculation of the wave growth rate, which is proportional…
The present study concerns the numerical modeling of sea-wave instability under the effect of logarithmic-wind profile in hurricane conditions. The central point of the study is the calculation of the wave growth rate, which is proportional…
The fragility of modern machine learning models has drawn a considerable amount of attention from both academia and the public. While immense interests were in either crafting adversarial attacks as a way to measure the robustness of neural…
In this work we explore the influence of random surface roughness on the cantilever sensitivity to respond to curvature changes induced by changes in surface stress. The roughness is characterized by the out-of-plane roughness amplitude w,…
Basal effects have important implications for the high mobility and long runout of granular flows such as rock avalanches and landslides. However, fundamental understanding of the basal effect in granular flows remains challenging due to…
The ability of three wave theories to predict statistics and the crest kinematics of a seaway is quantified. The three wave theories are high-order spectral (HOS) theory, free-surface mapping (FSM), and volume-of-fluid (VOF). Issues…
Wind-wave interactions impose wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind-wave loading on structures. Existing research treats the wind and wave loading separately and…
Numerous early warning systems based on rainfall measurements have been designed over the last decades to forecast the onset of rainfall-induced shallow landslides. However, their use over large areas poses challenges due to uncertainties…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
The oscillatory flow around a spherical object lying on a rough bottom is investigated by means of direct numerical simulations of continuity and Navier-Stokes equations. The rough bottom is simulated by a layer/multiple layers of spherical…
In order to understand and predict coastal flooding processes in rocky environments, it is necessary to take into account bottom roughness, which plays a key role in wave transformation processes and in general coastal dynamics. The present…
In this paper, we want to understand the Proudman resonance. It is a resonant respond in shallow waters of a water body on a traveling atmospheric disturbance when the speed of the disturbance is close to the typical water wave velocity. We…
The coarse spatial resolution of gridded climate models, such as general circulation models, limits their direct use in projecting socially relevant variables like extreme precipitation. Most downscaling methods estimate the conditional…
Direct Numerical Simulations (DNS) of turbulent channel flow at a shear Reynolds number of $Re_{*}=360$ for Newtonian and Herschel-Bulkley fluids in smooth and rough channels has been performed. The rough surface was made of irregular…
We study time harmonic acoustic scattering on large deviation rough random scatterers. Therein, the roughness of the scatterers is caused by a low Sobolev regularity in the covariance function of their deformation field. The motivation for…
Due to the multitude of scales present in realistic oceanic conditions, resolving the surface stress is computationally intensive, motivating modeling approaches. In this work, a dynamic wave drag model is developed for Large Eddy…
Numerical precision in large-scale scientific computations has become an emerging topic due to recent developments in computer hardware. Lower floating point precision offers the potential for significant performance improvements, but the…
Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…
An investigation of the effect of surface diffusion in random deposition model is made by analytical methods and reasoning. For any given site, the extent to which a particle can diffuse is decided by the morphology in the immediate…
We perform numerical simulations of the dynamical equations for free water surface in finite basin in presence of gravity. Wave Turbulence (WT) is a theory derived for describing statistics of weakly nonlinear waves in the infinite basin…