Related papers: Long wave runup on random beaches

A stochastic approach is implemented to address the problem of a marine structure exposed to water wave impacts. The focus is on (i) the average frequency of wave impacts, and (ii) the related probability distribution of impact kinematic…

In nature, submarine slope failures usually carry thousands of cubic-meters of sediments across extremely long distances and cause tsunamis and damages to offshore structures. This paper uses the granular column collapse experiment to…

A new highly efficient method is developed for computation of traveling periodic waves (Stokes waves) on the free surface of deep water. A convergence of numerical approximation is determined by the complex singularites above the free…

To aid in prediction of turbulent boundary layer flows over rough surfaces, a new model is proposed to estimate hydrodynamic roughness based solely on geometric surface information. The model is based on a fluid-mechanics motivated…

Sea-level rise and associated flood hazards pose severe risks to the millions of people globally living in coastal zones. Models representing coastal adaptation and impacts are important tools to inform the design of strategies to manage…

Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…

The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…

The practically important problem of the wave run-up is studied in this article in the framework of Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE). The main novelty consists in the usage of high order local asymptotic analytical solutions in the…

In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…

We study the surface growth generated by the random deposition of particles of different sizes. A model is proposed where the particles are aggregated on an initially flat surface, giving rise to a rough interface and a porous bulk. By…

Surface roughness is a key factor when it comes to friction and wear, as well as to other physical properties. These phenomena are controlled by mechanisms acting at small scales, in which the topography of apparently-flat surfaces is…

We investigate how the presence of a vertically sheared current affects wave statistics, including the probability of rogue waves, and apply it to a real-world case using measured spectral and shear current data from the Mouth of the…

Stochastic wind sea is an intermediate small-scale physical process responsible for the state of the atmospheric boundary layer and the water upper layer, having dynamics of all scales. To describe behavior of this system, one could use the…

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

In this paper we investigate the qualitative behaviour of the pressure function beneath an extreme Stokes wave over infinite depth. The presence of a stagnation point at the wave-crest of an extreme Stokes wave introduces a number of…

Direct Numerical Simulations are used to solve turbulent flow and heat transfer over a variety of rough walls in a channel. The wall geometries are exactly resolved in the simulations. The aim is to understand the effect of roughness…

This paper introduces an infinite-dimensional Bayesian framework for acoustic seabed tomography, leveraging wave scattering to simultaneously estimate the seabed and its roughness. Tomography is considered an ill-posed problem where…

The paper studies the robustness properties of discrete-time stochastic optimal control under Wasserstein model approximation for both discounted-cost and average-cost criteria. Specifically, we study the performance loss when applying an…

Waves traveling through random media exhibit random focusing that leads to extremely high wave intensities even in the absence of nonlinearities. Although such extreme events are present in a wide variety of physical systems and the…

We model shallow-water waves using a one-dimensional Korteweg-de Vries equation with the wave generation parameterized by random wave amplitudes for a predefined sea state. These wave amplitudes define the high-dimensional stochastic input…