Related papers: Long wave runup on random beaches
Boundary layer flow over a realistic porous wall might contain both the effects of wall-permeability and wall-roughness. These two effects are typically examined in the context of a rough-wall flow, i.e., by defining a ``roughness'' length…
Molecular dynamics (MD) and continuum simulations are carried out to investigate the influence of shear rate and surface roughness on slip flow of a Newtonian fluid. For weak wall-fluid interaction energy, the nonlinear shear-rate…
Forest canopies have been shown to alter the dynamics of flows over complex terrain. Deficiencies have been found when tall canopies are represented in numerical simulations by an increase in roughness length at the surface. Methods of…
Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a plane beach are studied. We take an advantage of experimental data collection of different wave types (single pulses, sinusoidal waves, bi-harmonic waves, and frequency modulated wave trains)…
Generated under hurricane conditions, a slip layer composed of foam, bubble emulsion, and spray determines the behavior of the surface drag with wind speed. This study enables us to estimate foam's contribution to this behavior. A…
The effect of random surface roughness on hydrodynamics of viscous incompressible liquid is discussed. Roughness-driven contributions to hydrodynamic flows, energy dissipation, and friction force are calculated in a wide range of…
The northeastern coast of the U.S. is projected to expand its offshore wind capacity from the existing 30 MW to over 22 GW in the next decade. Yet, only a few wind measurements are available in the region and none at hub height, thus…
Adjusting ocean wind observations to a standard height, usually 10 m, requires the use of a boundary layer model, and knowledge of the thermodynamical variables. Height adjustment is complicated by the fact that a necessary parameter, the…
We present a stochastic equation to model the erosion of topography with fixed inclination. The inclination causes the erosion to be anisotropic. A zero-order consequence of the anisotropy is the dependence of the prefactor of the surface…
In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process $\beta(x,…
The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…
As atmospheric models move to higher resolution and resolve smaller scales, the maximum modeled wind speed also tends to increase. Wave models tuned to coarser wind fields tend to overestimate the wave growth under strong winds. A recently…
The estimate of individual wave run-up is especially important for tsunami warning and risk assessment as it allows to evaluate the inundation area. Here as a model of tsunami we use the long single wave of positive polarity. The period of…
Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…
Many wind wave spectrum models provide excellent wave height prediction given the input of wind speed and wave age. Their quantification of the surface roughness, on the other hand, varies considerably. The ocean surface roughness is…
The correct description of the surface water dynamics in the model of shallow water requires accounting for friction. To simulate a channel flow in the Chezy model the constant Manning roughness coefficient is frequently used. The Manning…
The rotating shallow water model is a simplification of oceanic and atmospheric general circulation models that are used in many applications such as surge prediction, tsunami tracking and ocean modelling. In this paper we introduce a class…
Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…
The propagation and transformation of water waves over varying bathymetries is a subject of fundamental interest to ocean, coastal and harbor engineers. The specific bathymetry considered in this paper consists of one or two, naturally…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…