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Many supervised machine learning methods have revolutionised the empirical modelling of complex systems. These empirical models, however, are usually "black boxes" and provide only limited physical explanations about the underlying systems.…

We investigate the validity and robustness of the Barthelemy et al. (2018) breaking wave onset prediction framework for surface gravity water waves in arbitrary water depth, including shallow water breaking over varying bathymetry. We show…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2019-11-19 Morteza Derakhti , James T. Kirby , Michael L. Banner , Stephan T. Grilli , Jim Thomson

We present an investigation of the fundamental physical processes involved in deep water wave breaking. Our motivation is to identify the underlying reason causing the deficiency of the eddy viscosity breaking model (EVBM) in predicting…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2021-02-02 Anatoliy Khait , Zhihua Ma

Wave breaking is an important process for energy dissipation in the open ocean and coastal seas. It drives beach morphodynamics, controls air-sea interactions, determines when ship and offshore structure operations can occur safely, and…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2021-01-28 Caio Eadi Stringari , Pedro Veras Guimarães , Jean-François Filipot , Fabien Leckler , Rui Duarte

The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2019-12-05 Bruno Simon , Christos E. Papoutsellis , Michel Benoit , Marissa L. Yates

First order phase transitions in the early universe can give rise to a stochastic background of gravitational waves. A hypothetical first order electroweak phase transition is particularly interesting in this respect, since the signal is in…

宇宙学与河外天体物理 · 物理学 2015-03-17 Chiara Caprini

The search for solutions to the theory of weakly non-linear internal gravity wave turbulence is an active research topic. It is notably stimulated by the fact that this regime could drive fine-scale ocean dynamics for which the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2025-09-01 Nicolas Lanchon , Samuel Boury , Pierre-Philippe Cortet

An idealized storm scenario is examined in which a wind-generated inertial wave interacts with a turbulent baroclinic quasi-geostrophic flow. The flow is initialized by spinning up a Eady model with a realistic stratification profile. The…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2020-07-15 Olivier Asselin , William R. Young

Inhomogeneity generated waves, discovered more than a decade ago, play an important role in processes like energy transfer, turbulence generation, heating, etc. To understand the nature of these waves we developed the formalism that looks…

等离子体物理 · 物理学 2019-03-14 Edisher Kaghashvili

The weakly nonlinear dynamics of the free surface of a dielectric liquid in an electric field directed tangentially to the unperturbed boundary is investigated numerically. Within the framework of the strong field model, when the effects of…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-11-28 Evgeny A. Kochurin , Olga V. Zubareva , Nikolay M. Zubarev

We investigate gas transfer processes occurring at the air-water interface of progressive water waves using high-fidelity numerical simulations. Waves with varying initial steepness, including regular wave patterns, mild spilling and…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2025-06-17 Simone Di Giorgio , Sergio Pirozzoli , Alessandro Iafrati

The comprehension of stratified flows is important for geophysical and astrophysical applications. The Weak Wave Turbulence theory aims to provide a statistical description of internal gravity waves propagating in the bulk of such flows.…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-02-21 Vincent Labarre , Pierre Augier , Giorgio Krstulovic , Sergey Nazarenko

The unsteady flow physics of wind-turbine wakes under dynamic forcing conditions are critical to the modeling and control of wind farms for optimal power density. Unsteady forcing in the streamwise direction may be generated by unsteady…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-12-04 Nathaniel J. Wei , Adnan El Makdah , JiaCheng Hu , Frieder Kaiser , David E. Rival , John O. Dabiri

Internal waves, or waves that propagate within a stratified fluid, may break and cause mixing. While each individual mixing event may be small, collectively, internal wave breaking drive processes in the ocean that are critical to…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-03-17 Vohn Jacquez , Zachary Phan , Zachary Taebel , Dylan Brunei , Pierre-Yves Passaggia , Alberto Scotti

We study the generation of gravitational waves (GWs) during a cosmological first-order phase transition (PT) using the recently introduced Higgsless approach to numerically simulate the fluid motion induced by the PT. We present for the…

广义相对论与量子宇宙学 · 物理学 2025-08-04 Chiara Caprini , Ryusuke Jinno , Thomas Konstandin , Alberto Roper Pol , Henrique Rubira , Isak Stomberg

Oceanic pressure measurements, even in very deep water, and atmospheric pressure or seismic records, from anywhere on Earth, contain noise with dominant periods between 3 and 10 seconds, that is believed to be excited by ocean surface…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2015-06-11 Fabrice Ardhuin , Thomas H. C. Herbers

Gravity waves are generated by turbulent subsurface convection overshooting or penetrating locally into a stably stratified medium. While propagating energy upwards, their characteristic negative phase shift over height is a well-recognized…

太阳与恒星天体物理 · 物理学 2023-07-26 Hirdesh Kumar , Brajesh Kumar , S. P. Rajaguru

This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking ($P_b$) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within $\pm$30\% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2021-01-29 Caio Eadi Stringari , Marc Prevosto , Jean François Filipot , Fabien Leckler , Pedro Veras Guimarães

The video describes initial stages of spatial and temporal evolution of wind generated waves. This fluid dynamics video was created at Tel Aviv University small scale wind-wave flume as a part of an ongoing experimental program aimed at…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2011-10-14 Andrey Zavadsky , Dan Liberzon , Lev Shemer

Gravity wave turbulence is studied experimentally in a large wave basin where irregular waves are generated unidirectionally. The role of the basin boundary conditions (absorbing or reflecting) and of the forcing properties are…