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We present a dynamical-systems perspective on wave breaking for ideal incompressible free-surface flows. By tracking the most energetic hotspot on the wave surface, we find that near breaking the surface slope m evolves on a fast timescale…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-01-19 Francesco Fedele

We study the fate of internal gravity waves, which are excited by tidal forcing by a short-period planet at the interface of convection and radiation zones, approaching the centre of a solar-type star. We study at what amplitude these wave…

地球与行星天体物理 · 物理学 2015-05-18 A. J. Barker , G. I. Ogilvie

A plethora of studies in the past decade describe tsunami hazards and study their evolution from the source to the target coastline, but mainly focus on coastal inundation and maximum runup. Nonetheless, anecdotal reports from eyewitnesses,…

地球物理 · 物理学 2016-11-15 Roberto Marivela , Robert Weiss , Costas Synolakis

Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are complex and may involve wave breaking, which has made these loads difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of…

This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2014-08-20 Ilia M. Mindlin

Special features of surface gravity waves in deep fluid flow with constant vertical shear of velocity is studied. It is found that the mean flow velocity shear leads to non-trivial modification of surface gravity wave modes dispersive…

天体物理学 · 物理学 2016-08-30 G. Gogoberidze , L. Samushia , G. D. Chagelishvili , J. G. Lominadze , W. Horton

We investigate the momentum fluxes between a turbulent air boundary layer and a growing-breaking wave field by solving the air-water two-phase Navier-Stokes equations through direct numerical simulations (DNS). A fully-developed turbulent…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-12-31 Nicolò Scapin , Jiarong Wu , J. Thomas Farrar , Bertrand Chapron , Stéphane Popinet , Luc Deike

Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2018-03-05 Alberto Alberello , Amin Chabchoub , Jason Monty , Filippo Nelli , Jung Lee , John Elsnab , Alessandro Toffoli

Inspired by the wake-surfing nature of animals, this study aims to understand the aerodynamic force variation on a wing surfing in an unsteady 2-D wake. Wind tunnel experiments were conducted using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) and force…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2025-12-11 Siyang Hao , Kenneth Breuer

A gradient-wind balanced flow with an elliptic streamline parametrically excites internal inertia-gravity waves through ageostrophic anticyclonic instability (AAI). This study numerically investigates the breaking of internal waves and the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-06-23 Yohei Onuki , Sylvain Joubaud , Thierry Dauxois

The CO2 gas transfer velocity (KCO2) at air-water interface in a wind-wave flume was estimated at the circumstance of wave breaking. Three types of dynamic processes in the flume were created: monochromatic waves generated by wavemaker,…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2021-11-24 Shuo Li , Alexander V. Babanin , Fangli Qiao , Dejun Dai , Shumin Jiang , Changlong Guan

We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-11-08 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Luc Deike

Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2021-07-01 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

The behaviour of internal waves propagating in a background shear flow is studied in the case where the direction of shear is orthogonal to gravity. Ray-tracing theory is used to predict properties of the wave state at locations where…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-03-03 Samuel F. Lewin , Alexis K. Kaminski , Arun Balakrishna , Miles M. P. Couchman

The energy pathways from propagating internal waves to the scales of irreversible mixing in the ocean are not fully described. In the ocean interior, the triadic resonant instability is an intrinsic destabilization process that may enhance…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2021-02-10 Yvan Dossmann , Florence Pollet , Philippe Odier , Thierry Dauxois

The production of a stochastic background of gravitational waves is a fundamental prediction of any cosmological inflationary model. The features of such a signal encode unique information about the physics of the Early Universe and beyond,…

宇宙学与河外天体物理 · 物理学 2016-09-05 Maria Chiara Guzzetti , Nicola Bartolo , Michele Liguori , Sabino Matarrese

Using water/salty-water laboratory experiments}, we investigate the mechanism of erosion by a turbulent jet impinging on a density interface, for moderate Reynolds and Froude numbers. Contrary to previous models involving baroclinic…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-02-01 Johann Herault , Giulio Facchini , Michael Le Bars

The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2021-03-12 Alex Ayet , Bertrand Chapron , Peter Sutherland , Gabriel G. Katul

Internal gravity waves are excited at the interface of convection and radiation zones of a solar-type star by the tidal forcing of a short-period planet. The fate of these waves as they approach the centre of the star depends on their…

地球与行星天体物理 · 物理学 2015-05-27 A. J. Barker , G. I. Ogilvie

Using standard signal processing tools, we experimentally report that intermittency of wave turbulence on the surface of a fluid occurs even when two typical large-scale coherent structures (gravity wave breakings and bursts of capillary…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2015-05-18 Eric Falcon , S. G. Roux , Claude Laroche