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Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-07-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

We consider the stability of periodic gravity free-surface water waves traveling downstream at a constant speed over a shear flow of finite depth. In case the free surface is flat, a sharp criterion of linear instability is established for…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2007-11-28 Vera Mikyoung Hur , Zhiwu Lin

Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2019-01-30 C. Tyler Bolles , Kevin Speer , M. N. J. Moore

In computing ship motion statistics (e.g., exceeding probability) in an irregular wave field, it is a common practice to represent the irregular waves by a large number of wave groups and compute the motion statistics from the distribution…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-08-30 Xianliang Gong , Yulin Pan

We study relativistic particles undergoing surfing acceleration at perpendicular shocks. We assume that particles undergo diffusion in the component of momentum perpendicular to the shock plane due to moderate fluctuations in the shock…

天体物理学 · 物理学 2009-11-10 Benjamin D. G. Chandran , Naoki Bessho

Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to quasi-four wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. Both mechanisms have been acutely studied. The first of the two is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-05-21 Yuchen He , Jinghua Wang , Jingsong He , Ye Li , Xingya Feng , Amin Chabchoub

The Advanced Circulation (ADCIRC) and Simulating Nearshore Waves (SWAN) coupled model is modified to include a stochastic term in the shallow water equations that represents random external forces from debris carried by surge and short-term…

计算工程、金融与科学 · 计算机科学 2020-12-14 Joshua Frankie Rayo , Vena Pearl Boñgolan

The problem of a bouncing ball on a non-planar surface is investigated. We discovered that surface undulation adds a horizontal component to the impact force, which acquires a random character. Some aspects of Brownian motion are found in…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2023-05-03 Ana Laura Boscolo , Valdir Barbosa da Silva Junior , Luiz Antonio Barreiro

We use the image solution technique to compute the leading order frequency-dependent self-mobility function of a small solid particle moving perpendicular to the surface of a spherical capsule whose membrane possesses shearing and bending…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-02-01 Abdallah Daddi-Moussa-Ider , Stephan Gekle

We study experimentally a a three-dimensional reduced model of a sail shape performing pitching oscillations around a mean incidence angle ($\alpha_{m}$) with respect to an incoming flow in a hydrodynamic channel at a constant velocity…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-03-24 Gauthier Bertrand , Ramiro Godoy-Diana , Benjamin Thiria , Marc Fermigier

Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave is…

可精确求解与可积系统 · 物理学 2007-05-23 Narcisse Zahibo , Irina Didenkulova , Andrey Kurkin , Efim Pelinovsky

Using experimental data from three different rogue wave supporting systems, determinism and predictability of the underlying dynamics are evaluated with methods of nonlinear time series analysis. We included original records from the…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2015-03-03 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

We discuss the effects of the directional spreading on the occurrence of extreme wave events. We numerically integrate the envelope equation recently proposed by Trulsen et al., Phys of Fluids 2000, as a weakly nonlinear model for realistic…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2009-11-07 Miguel Onorato , Alfred R. Osborne , Marina Serio

The Probability Distribution Function of plasma density fluctuations at the edge of fusion devices is known to be skewed and strongly non-Gaussian. The causes of this peculiar behaviour are, up to now, largely unexplored. On the other hand,…

等离子体物理 · 物理学 2007-05-23 F. Sattin , N. Vianello

Although extreme or freak waves are repeatedly measured in the oceans, their origin is largely unknown. The interaction of different water waves is seen as one reason for their emergence. One way to consider nonlinear waves in deep water is…

斑图形成与孤子 · 物理学 2020-08-28 Hendrik Fischer , Marten Hollm , Leo Dostal

We perform full-scale numerical simulation of instability of weakly nonlinear waves on the surface of deep fluid. We show that the instability development leads to chaotization and formation of wave turbulence. We study instability both of…

计算物理 · 物理学 2022-06-03 A. O. Korotkevich , A. I. Dyachenko , V. E. Zakharov

Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…

经典物理 · 物理学 2020-05-26 Francesco Carbone , Denys Dutykh , John M. Dudley , Frédéric Dias

Parametric rolling is one of the dangerous dynamic phenomena. In order to discuss the safety of a vessel when a dangerous phenomenon occurs, it is important to estimate the probability of certain dynamical behavior of the ship with respect…

动力系统 · 数学 2022-12-02 Yuuki Maruyama , Atsuo Maki , Leo Dostal , Naoya Umeda

We report the experimental observation of intermittency in a regime dominated by random shock waves on the surface of a fluid. We achieved such a nondispersive surface-wave field using a magnetic fluid subjected to a high external magnetic…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-09-29 Guillaume Ricard , Eric Falcon

The study of crowd dynamics is interesting because of the various self-organization phenomena resulting from the interactions of many pedestrians, which may improve or obstruct their flow. Besides formation of lanes of uniform walking…

物理与社会 · 物理学 2008-10-28 Anders Johansson , Dirk Helbing , Habib Z. Al-Abideen , Salim Al-Bosta