相关论文: Anomalous waves triggered by abrupt depth changes:…

The truncated Korteweg-De Vries (TKdV) system, a shallow-water wave model with Hamiltonian structure that exhibits weakly turbulent dynamics, has been found to accurately predict the anomalous wave statistics observed in recent laboratory…

A computational strategy based on large deviation theory (LDT) is used to study the anomalous statistical features of turbulent surface waves propagating past an abrupt depth change created via a step in the bottom topography. The dynamics…

Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…

We study here the water-waves problem for uneven bottoms in a highly nonlinear regime where the small amplitude assumption of the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation is enforced. It is known, that for such regimes, a generalization of the KdV…

The paper's main goal is to compare the motion of solitary surface waves resulting from two similar but slightly different approaches. In the first approach, the numerical evolution of soliton surface waves moving over the uneven bottom is…

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

The Gibbs ensemble of the truncated KdV (TKdV) equation has been shown to accurately describe the anomalous wave statistics observed in laboratory experiments, in particular the emergence of extreme events. Here, we introduce a novel…

The work presented here emanates from questions arising from experimental observations of the propagation of surface water waves. The experiments in question featured a periodically moving wavemaker located at one end of a flume that…

In this paper we focus on the water waves problem for uneven bottoms on a two-dimensionnal domain. Starting from the symmetric Boussinesq systems derived in [Chazel, Influence of topography on long water waves, 2007], we recover the…

Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave…

Using Levi-Civita's theory of ideal fluids, we derive the complex Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, describing the complex velocity of a shallow fluid up to first order. We use perturbation theory, and the long wave, slowly varying velocity…

The authors of the paper "The third-order perturbed Korteweg-de Vries equation for shallow water waves with a non-flat bottom" [1] claim that they have derived the full third order perturbed KdV equation for the case of uneven bottom. We…

In this letter, we derive the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation corresponding to the surface dynamics of a shallow depth ($h$) two-dimensional fluid with odd viscosity ($\nu_o$) subject to gravity ($g$) in the long wavelength weakly…

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

A new type of wave-mean flow interaction is identified and studied in which a small-amplitude, linear, dispersive modulated wave propagates through an evolving, nonlinear, large-scale fluid state such as an expansion (rarefaction) wave or a…

An alternative way for the derivation of the new KdV-type equation is presented. The equation contains terms depending on the bottom topography (there are six new terms in all, three of which are caused by the unevenness of the bottom). It…

Debris flows often exhibit coherent wave structures-shock-like roll waves on steeper slopes and weaker, more sinusoidal dispersive pulses on gentler slopes. Coarse-rich heads raise basal resistance, whereas fines-rich tails lower it; in…

The bifurcation of plane waves to localised structures is investigated in the Dysthe equation, which incorporates the effects of mean flow and wave steepening. Through the use of phase modulation techniques, it is demonstrated that such…

A new model for Korteweg and de-Vries equation (KdV) is derived. The system under study is an open channel consisting of two concentric cylinders, rotating about their vertical axis, which is tilted by slope {\tau} from the inertial…

In this work, we develop a computational method that to provide realtime detection for water bottom topography based on observations on surface measurements, and we design an inverse problem to achieve this task. The forward model that we…