相关论文: Extreme wave statistics in co-propagating windsea …

Waves traveling through random media exhibit random focusing that leads to extremely high wave intensities even in the absence of nonlinearities. Although such extreme events are present in a wide variety of physical systems and the…

The ability of three wave theories to predict statistics and the crest kinematics of a seaway is quantified. The three wave theories are high-order spectral (HOS) theory, free-surface mapping (FSM), and volume-of-fluid (VOF). Issues…

The frontal structure of the Southern Ocean is investigated using a sophisticated frontal detection methodology, the Wavelet/Higher Order Statistics Enhancement (WHOSE) method, introduced in \cite{Chapman2014}. This methodology is applied…

As mentioned by Schwartz (1974) and Cokelet (1977), it was failed to gain convergent results of limiting Stokes' waves in extremely shallow water by means of perturbation methods even with the aid of extrapolation techniques such as…

Extreme sea level estimates are fundamental for mitigating against coastal flooding as they provide insight for defence engineering. As the global climate changes, rising sea levels combined with increases in storm intensity and frequency…

This work is motivated by the analysis of the extremal behavior of buoy and satellite data describing wave conditions in the North Atlantic Ocean. The available data sets consist of time series of significant wave height (Hs) with irregular…

Wind-wave interactions impose wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind-wave loading on structures. Existing research treats the wind and wave loading separately and…

Effects of increasing whistler amplitude and propagation angle are studied through a variational test particle simulation and calculations of the resonance width. While high amplitude and oblique whistlers in typical 1 AU solar wind…

Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…

Stochastic wind sea is an intermediate small-scale physical process responsible for the state of the atmospheric boundary layer and the water upper layer, having dynamics of all scales. To describe behavior of this system, one could use the…

Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…

Accurate information on waves and storm surges is essential to understand coastal hazards that are expected to increase in view of global warming and rising sea levels. Despite the recent advancement in development and application of…

We study statistical properties after a sudden episode of wind for water waves propagating in one direction. A wave with random initial conditions is propagated using a forced-damped higher order Nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLS).…

We discuss the formation of large amplitude waves for sea states characterized by JONSWAP spectra with random phases. In this context we discuss experimental results performed in one of the largest wave tank facilities in the world. We…

The joint extremal spatial dependence of wind speed and significant wave height in the North East Atlantic is quantified using Metop satellite scatterometer and hindcast observations for the period 2007-2018, and a multivariate spatial…

Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…

Projections of extreme sea levels (ESLs) are critical for managing coastal risks, but are made complicated by deep uncertainties. One key uncertainty is the choice of model structure used to estimate coastal hazards. Differences in model…

Marine heatwaves (MHWs), an extreme climate phenomenon, pose significant challenges to marine ecosystems and industries, with their frequency and intensity increasing due to climate change. This study introduces an integrated deep learning…

We study experimentally, in a large-scale basin, the propagation of unidirectional deep water gravity waves stochastically modulated in phase. We observe the emergence of nonlinear localized structures that evolve on a stochastic wave…

The evolution of crossing sea states and the emergence of rogue waves in such systems are studied via numerical simulations performed using a higher order spectral method to solve the free surface Euler equations with a flat bottom. Two…