相关论文: Predicting the breaking strength of gravity water …
The two dimensional gravity water wave problem concerns the motion of an incompressible fluid occupying half the 2D space and flowing under its own gravity. In this paper we study long-term regularity of solutions evolving from small but…
A conceptual model relating the whitecap coverage to the bubble plume buoyancy is developed following the observation that the entrained bubble plume buoyancy constitutes a large portion of the breaking wave energy dissipation. The…
In the framework of the canonical model of hydrodynamics, where fluid is assumed to be ideal and incompressible, waves are potential, two-dimensional, and symmetric, the authors have recently reported the existence of a new type of gravity…
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in…
We study the two-dimensional gravity water waves with a one-dimensional interface with small initial data. Our main contributions include the development of two novel localization lemmas and a Transition-of-Derivatives method, which enable…
The statistics of breaking wave fields is characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier-Stokes equations. We…
The paper is concerned with the 3D-initial value problem for power-law fluids with shear dependent viscosity in a spatially periodic domain. The goal is the construction of a weak solution enjoying an energy equality. The results hold…
The performances of phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave transformation models depend significantly on a reliable estimate of the wave breaker index r (the breaker height-to-depth ratio), a free model parameter that essentially controls…
The aim of the present work is to develop a model able to represent the propagation and transformation of waves in nearshore areas. The focus is on the phenomena of wave breaking, shoaling and run-up. These different phenomena are…
We consider the two dimensional gravity water wave equation in the regime that includes free surfaces with angled crests. We assume that the fluid is inviscid, incompressible and irrotational, the air density is zero, and we neglect the…
For models describing water waves, Constantin and Escher's works have long been considered as the cornerstone method for proving wave breaking phenomena. Their rigorous analytic proof shows that if the lowest slope of flows can be…
We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…
We study the fate of internal gravity waves, which are excited by tidal forcing by a short-period planet at the interface of convection and radiation zones, approaching the centre of a solar-type star. We study at what amplitude these wave…
We prove a weighted a priori energy estimate for the two dimensional water-waves problem with contact points in the absence of gravity and surface tension. When the surface graph function and its time derivative have some decay near the…
Our goal in this paper is to initiate the rigorous investigation of wave turbulence and derivation of wave kinetic equations (WKE) for water waves models. This problem has received intense attention in recent years in the context of…
Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…
The impact forces generated by the impact of a breaking wave are poorly understood. These impulsive hydrodynamic loads to a ship's hull are of short duration relative to ship motions and buoyant wave loads and often result in extremely high…
Numerical simulations describing plunging breakers including the splash-up phenomenon are presented. The motion is governed by the classical, incompressible, two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equation. The numerical modelling of this two-phase…
Observations show that maximally-steep breaking water wave crest speeds are much slower than expected. We report a wave-crest slowdown mechanism generic to unsteady propagating deep water wave groups. Our fully nonlinear computations show…
We study the long-time behavior of a point mass moving in a one-dimensional viscous compressible fluid. Previously, we showed that the velocity of the point mass $V(t)$ satisfies a decay estimate $V(t)=O(t^{-3/2})$~[K. Koike, J.…