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Nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves trapped by an opposing jet current is studied analytically and numerically. For wave fields narrowband in frequency but not necessarily with narrow angular distributions the developed asymptotic…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-03-17 Victor Shrira , Alexey Slunyaev

We construct a family of explicit rotational solutions to the nonlinear governing equations for water waves, describing edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach. A detailed analysis of the edge wave dynamics and of the run-up…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2009-11-07 Adrian Constantin

We examine the general question of statistical changes experienced by ensembles of nonlinear random waves propagating in systems ruled by integrable equations. In our study that enters within the framework of integrable turbulence, we…

光学 · 物理学 2016-08-24 S. Randoux , P. Walczak , M. Onorato , P. Suret

Propagation of elastic waves in damaged media (concrete, rocks) is studied theoretically and numerically. Such materials exhibit a nonlinear behavior, with long-time softening and recovery processes (slow dynamics). A constitutive model…

经典物理 · 物理学 2021-04-26 Harold Berjamin , Bruno Lombard , Guillaume Chiavassa , Nicolas Favrie

We explore the form of rogue wave solutions in a select set of case examples of nonlinear Schr\"odinger equations with variable coefficients. We focus on systems with constant dispersion, and present three different models that describe…

斑图形成与孤子 · 物理学 2014-10-23 J. S. He , E. G. Charalampidis , P. G. Kevrekidis , D. J. Frantzeskakis

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

We consider the assimilation of Lagrangian data into a primitive equations circulation model of the ocean at basin scale. The Lagrangian data are positions of floats drifting at fixed depth. We aim at reconstructing the four-dimensional…

最优化与控制 · 数学 2009-11-13 Maëlle Nodet

This paper describes a method for deriving approximate equations for irrotational water waves. The method is based on a 'relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many variables as possible. This formulation is…

经典物理 · 物理学 2020-02-20 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

By numerical simulation of exact equations of motion (in terms of conformal variables) for planar non-stationary potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over a strongly non-uniform bottom profile, the effect of nonlinear…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-02-10 Victor P. Ruban

Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2019-01-30 C. Tyler Bolles , Kevin Speer , M. N. J. Moore

Many approximate solutions of the time-dependent Schr\"odinger equation can be formulated as exact solutions of a nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation with an effective Hamiltonian operator depending on the state of the system. We show that…

量子物理 · 物理学 2024-09-26 Jiří J. L. Vaníček

Argo floats measure seawater temperature and salinity in the upper 2,000 m of the global ocean. Statistical analysis of the resulting spatio-temporal dataset is challenging due to its nonstationary structure and large size. We propose…

应用统计 · 统计学 2018-12-31 Mikael Kuusela , Michael L. Stein

We investigate exact nonlinear waves on surfaces locally approximating the rotating sphere for two-dimensional inviscid incompressible flow. Our first system corresponds to a beta-plane approximation at the equator and the second to a gamma…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-11-20 Nick Pizzo , Rick Salmon

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation with variable coefficients for surface waves on a large-scale steady nonuniform current has been derived without the assumption of a relative smallness of the velocity of the current. This equation can…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2017-04-14 V. P. Ruban

Modern, high-fidelity numerical simulations have shown an apparently anomalous result: a longitudinal elastodynamic wave travelling perpendicular to the forcing direction. Numerical simulations, in combination with an analytical model, are…

应用物理 · 物理学 2024-06-24 Peter Huthwaite

We introduce an approximation scheme to perform an analytic study of the oscillation phenomena in a pedagogical and comprehensive way. By using Gaussian wave packets, we show that the oscillation is bounded by a time-dependent vanishing…

高能物理 - 唯象学 · 物理学 2009-11-10 Alex E. Bernardini , Stefano De Leo

Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to quasi-four wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. Both mechanisms have been acutely studied. The first of the two is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-05-21 Yuchen He , Jinghua Wang , Jingsong He , Ye Li , Xingya Feng , Amin Chabchoub

We address the time evolution of two- and three-dimensional nonrelativistic Gaussian wave packets in the presence of a weak external potential of arbitrary functional form. The focus of our study is the phenomenon of rotation of a Gaussian…

量子物理 · 物理学 2017-07-18 Arseni Goussev

Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2012-08-21 L. H. Ying , L. Kaplan
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