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Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

We review the study of rogue waves and related instabilities in optical and oceanic environments, with particular focus on recent experimental developments. In optics, we emphasize results arising from the use of real-time measurement…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2019-12-24 J. M. Dudley , G. Genty , A. Mussot , A. Chabchoub , F. Dias

The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-11-20 Jie Zhang , Saulo Mendes , Michel Benoit , Jérôme Kasparian

We show that rogue waves can be triggered naturally when a stable wave train enters a region of an opposing current flow. We demonstrate that the maximum amplitude of the rogue wave depends on the ratio between the current velocity, $ U_0…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2011-10-27 Miguel Onorato , Davide Proment , Alessandro Toffoli

Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-01-27 Ina Teutsch , Saulo Mendes , Jerome Kasparian

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2012-07-11 L. H. Ying , Z. Zhuang , E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

We show experimentally that a stable wave propagating into a region characterized by an opposite current may become modulationaly unstable. Experiments have been performed in two independent wave tank facilities; both of them are equipped…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2014-07-30 A. Toffoli , T. Waseda , H. Houtani , T. Kinoshita , K. Collins , D. Proment , M. Onorato

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

There are many examples in physics of systems showing rogue wave behaviour, the generation of high amplitude events at low probability. Although initially studied in oceanography, rogue waves have now been seen in many other domains, with…

By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-09-14 Alexey V. Slunyaev , Anna V. Kokorina

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-12-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

We investigate the statistics of rogue waves occurring in the inverse cascade of surface gravity wave turbulence. In such statistically homogeneous, stationary and isotropic wave fields, low-frequency waves are generated by nonlinear…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2022-06-15 Guillaume Michel , Félicien Bonnefoy , Guillaume Ducrozet , Eric Falcon

Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…

斑图形成与孤子 · 物理学 2018-01-24 Rebecca El Koussaifi , Alexey Tikan , Alessandro Toffoli , Stephane Randoux , Pierre Suret , Miguel Onorato

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

Numerical simulations are used to discuss various aspects of "optical rogue wave" statistics observed in noise-driven fiber supercontinuum generation associated with highly incoherent spectra. In particular, we consider how long wavelength…

光学 · 物理学 2015-05-19 Miro Erkintalo , Goëry Genty , John M. Dudley

We report direct observations of surface waves from a stereo camera system along with concurrent measurements of wind speed during an expedition across the Southern Ocean in the austral winter aboard South African icebreaker…

Rogue waves are known to occur on the ocean surface leading to significant damage to marine installations and compromising ship safety. Understanding the physical mechanisms responsible for extreme wave focusing is crucial in order to…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2024-08-14 Yuchen He , Amin Chabchoub
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