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A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels…

综合物理 · 物理学 2017-05-16 Jin-Liang Wang

Previous studies focused primarily on wind stress being proportional to wind velocity relative to the ocean velocity, which induces a curl in wind stress with polarity opposite to the ocean mesoscale vorticity, resulting in net negative…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2024-12-31 Shikhar Rai , J. Thomas Farrar , Hussein Aluie

We study the problem of sinking particles in a realistic oceanic flow, with major energetic structures in the mesoscale, focussing in the range of particle sizes and densities appropriate for marine biogenic particles. Our aim is to unify…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2017-07-03 Pedro Monroy , Emilio Hernández-García , Vincent Rossi , Cristóbal López

The nonlinear dynamics of an obliquely oriented wave packet at sea surface is studied both analytically and numerically for various initial parameters of the packet, in connection with the problem of oceanic rogue waves. In the framework of…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2015-04-10 V. P. Ruban

Understanding local currents in the North Atlantic region of the ocean is a key part of modelling heat transfer and global climate patterns. Satellites provide a surface signature of the temperature of the ocean with a high horizontal…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2019-10-22 Gautier Cosne , Guillaume Maze , Pierre Tandeo

Over the years, the directional distribution functions of wind-generated wave field have been assumed to be unimodal. While details of various functional forms differ, these directional models suggest that waves of all spectral components…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2019-06-20 Paul A. Hwang , David W. Wang , W. Erick Rogers , Robert N. Swift , James Yungel , William B. Krabill

The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-02-17 Tianyi Li , Lian Shen

The purpose of this paper is to study the impact force of an oblique angled slamming wave acting on a rigid wall. In the present study the analytical approach is pursued based on a technique proposed by the author. A nonlinear theory in the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-08-04 Jian-Jun Shu

This paper presents a survey of ocean simulation and rendering methods in computer graphics. To model and animate the ocean's surface, these methods mainly rely on two main approaches: on the one hand, those which approximate ocean dynamics…

We review opportunities for stochastic geometric mechanics to incorporate observed data into variational principles, in order to derive data-driven nonlinear dynamical models of effects on the variability of computationally resolvable…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2018-06-28 François Gay-Balmaz , Darryl D. Holm

Stochastic wind sea is an intermediate small-scale physical process responsible for the state of the atmospheric boundary layer and the water upper layer, having dynamics of all scales. To describe behavior of this system, one could use the…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2010-09-13 Vladislav Polnikov

Analysing the impact of bottom friction on shallow water waves over bottom terrains is important in areas including environmental and coastal engineering as well as the oceanic and atmospheric sciences. However, current theoretical…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-06-28 Chang Liu , Antwan D. Clark

The paper presents a model of a dynamic crack with a wavy surface. So far, theoretical analysis of crack front waves has been performed only for in-plane perturbations of the crack front. In the present paper, generalisation is given to a…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2012-06-06 J. R. Willis , N. V. Movchan , A. B. Movchan

In this work we study oceanic waves in a shallow water flow subject to strong wind forcing and rotation, and linearized around a inhomogeneous (non zonal) stationary profile. This extends the study \cite{CGPS}, where the profile was assumed…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2010-11-22 Isabelle Gallagher , Thierry Paul , Laure Saint-Raymond

Oceanic tides are a major source of tidal dissipation. They drive the evolution of planetary systems and the rotational dynamics of planets. However, 2D models commonly used for the Earth cannot be applied to extrasolar telluric planets…

地球与行星天体物理 · 物理学 2018-07-18 Pierre Auclair-Desrotour , Stéphane Mathis , Jacques Laskar , Jérémy Leconte

This work aims at generating a model of the ocean surface and its dynamics from one or more video cameras. The idea is to model wave patterns from video as a first step towards a larger system of photogrammetric monitoring of marine…

计算机视觉与模式识别 · 计算机科学 2013-10-01 Mauro de Amorim , Ricardo Fabbri , Lucia Maria dos Santos Pinto , Francisco Duarte Moura Neto

The main focus of marine oil spill modelling is often on where the oil will end up, i.e., on the horizontal transport. However, due to current shear, wind drag, and the different physical, chemical and biological processes that affect oil…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2020-10-23 Tor Nordam , Jørgen Skancke , Rodrigo Duran , Chris Barker

In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-05-02 Etienne Mémin , Long Li , Noé Lahaye , Gilles Tissot , Bertrand Chapron

Researchers typically resort to numerical methods to understand and predict ocean dynamics, a key task in mastering environmental phenomena. Such methods may not be suitable in scenarios where the topographic map is complex, knowledge about…

A method of windowed spatio-temporal spectral filtering is proposed to segregate different nonlinear wave components, and to calculate the surface of free waves. The dynamic kurtosis (i.e., produced by the free wave component) is shown able…

斑图形成与孤子 · 物理学 2020-07-01 Alexey Slunyaev