相关论文: Scattering of swell by currents
Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…
Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…
Currents modulate the energy of surface gravity waves, leading to spatial inhomogeneities in significant wave height (SWH). Previous work indicates that the overall scale of the inhomogeneities is set by the scale of the currents, that the…
We analytically study a scattering of long linear surface waves on stationary currents in a duct (canal) of constant depth and variable width. It is assumed that the background velocity linearly increases or decreases with the longitudinal…
In the linear approximation we study long wave scattering on an axially symmetric flow in a shallow water basin with a drain in the center. This classical problem can be considered as a model of wave scattering on a rotating black hole. For…
We explore wave-mechanical scattering in two spatial dimensions assuming that the corresponding potential is invariant under linear symmetry transforms such as rotations, reflections and coordinate exchange. Usually the asymptotic…
A nested large-scale wave model that covers most of the Atlantic Ocean and focuses on generating accurate swell conditions for Ireland is presented and validated over the two years 2016 and 2017. The impact of currents is studied using the…
Wave localization is a ubiquitous phenomenon. It refers to situations that transmitted waves in scattering media are trapped in space and remain confined in the vicinity of the initial site until dissipated. Based on a scaling analysis, the…
The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…
We consider a classical problem about dynamic instability that leads to the Langmuir circulation. The problem statement assumes that there is initially a wind-driven shear flow and a plane surface wave propagating in the direction of the…
We study modulational stability and instability in the Whitham equation, combining the dispersion relation of water waves and a nonlinearity of the shallow water equations, and modified to permit the effects of surface tension and constant…
Effects of spatially varying interfacial parameters on the propagation of surface waves are studied. These variations can arise from inhomogeneities in coverage of surface active substances such as amphiphillic molecules at the fluid/gas…
Using recordings of swell from pitch-and-roll buoys, we have reproduced the classic observations of long-range surface wave propagation originally made by Munk et al. (1963) using a triangular array of bottom pressure measurements. In the…
Spatial maps of the high-pass frequency filtered time-averaged root-mean-squared (RMS) Doppler velocities tend to show substantial decrements within regions of strong field and curiously, randomly distributed patches of enhancement in the…
We consider the asymptotic behaviour of small-amplitude gravity water waves in a rectangular domain where the water depth is much smaller than the horizontal scale. The control acts on one lateral boundary, by imposing the horizontal…
We numerically study the scattering coefficients of linear water waves on stationary flows above a localized obstacle. We compare the scattering on trans- and subcritical flows, and then focus on the latter which have been used in recent…
In this work we study the wave scattering by small dispersionless particles with pulsating refractive index. The scattered fields and their resonance frequencies are calculated by using scalar approximation and exponentially time-dependent…
The analytical study of long wave scattering in a canal with a rapidly varying cross-section is presented. It is assumed that waves propagate on a stationary current with a given flow rate. Due to the fixed flow rate, the current speed is…