相关论文: Universality of Sea Wave Growth and Its Physical R…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…
The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…
Ocean wind waves are a fundamental manifestation of complex dynamics in geophysical fluid systems, characterized by a rich interplay between dispersion and nonlinearity. While linear wave theory provides a first-order description of wave…
Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…
The theory of similarity for wind-driven seas is applied to the physical analysis of the problem of sea state bias (SSB) in altimetry measurements. Dimensionless wave steepness and pseudo-age derived from altimetry measurements are expected…
We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…
The last decade has seen a significant increase in the number of studies devoted to wave turbulence. Many deal with water waves, as modeling of ocean waves has historically motivated the development of weak turbulence theory, which adresses…
In order to study the growth of wind waves in finite depth we extend Miles' theory to the finite depth domain. A depth-dependent wave growth rate is derived from the dispersion relation of the wind/water interface. A suitable dimensionless…
Wind-wave interaction involves wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on the turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind and wave loading on structures. Existing research on wind-wave interaction modeling ignores…
This article provides a survey on some main results and recent developments in the mathematical theory of water waves. More precisely, we briefly discuss the mathematical modeling of water waves and then we give an overview of local and…
We are interested here in describing the linear response of the ocean to some wind forcing, which admits fast time oscillations and may be resonant with the Coriolis force. In addition to the usual Ekman layer, we exhibit another - much…
Wind waves are considered as an intermediate small-scale dynamic process at the air-sea interface,which modulates radically middle-scale dynamic processes of the boundary layers in water and air. It is shown that with the aim of a…
For steady-state and some other types of mechanical waves of an arbitrary form, intensity and nature, propagating in a free uniform waveguide, we present the following. Relations for the axial momentum as it directly follows from the…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
A mechanistic theory of wind-wave interaction must rely on verifiable assumptions and offer reproducible observable predictions. For decades, the limited mechanistic grasp on the problem has motivated RANS and LES modeling and has driven a…
A flexible sheet clamped at both ends and submitted to a permanent wind is unstable and propagates waves. Here, we experimentally study the selection of frequency and wavenumber as a function of the wind velocity. These quantities obey…
New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent…