相关论文: Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a b…

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of the sea surface has shown that the collision of two groups of relatively low waves with close but noncollinear wave vectors (two or three waves in each group with a steepness of about…

It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We combine insight from exact solutions of a simplified mathematical model with photographs from observations at the Norwegian coast…

We show experimentally that a stable wave propagating into a region characterized by an opposite current may become modulationaly unstable. Experiments have been performed in two independent wave tank facilities; both of them are equipped…

There are many examples in physics of systems showing rogue wave behaviour, the generation of high amplitude events at low probability. Although initially studied in oceanography, rogue waves have now been seen in many other domains, with…

By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…

Rogue waves are solitary waves with extreme amplitudes, which appear to be a ubiquitous phenomenon in nonlinear wave propagation, with the requirement for a nonlinearity being their only unifying characteristics. While many mechanisms have…

Extreme or rogue waves are large and unexpected waves appearing with higher probability than predicted by Gaussian statistics. Although their formation is explained by both linear and nonlinear wave propagation, nonlinearity has been…

The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

We study deep water ocean wind-driven waves in strait, with wind directed orthogonally to the shore, through exact Hasselmann equation. Despite of "dissipative" shores - we do not include any reflection from the coast lines - we show that…

Waves scattered at a self-oscillating mode can exhibit superradiance, or net amplification of an external harmonic excitation. This exotic behavior, arising from the nonlinear coupling between the mode and the incident wave, is…

Rogue waves, characterized by their abrupt and extreme localization in space and time, have evolved from maritime folklore to subjects of intense study across diverse fields, from hydrodynamics and nonlinear optics to plasmas and condensed…

In this work we derive evolution equations for the nonlinear behavior of a coasting beam under the influence of a resonator impedance. Using a renormalization group approach we find a set of coupled nonlinear equations for the beam density…

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

The issue of accounting of the wave breaking phenomenon in direct numerical simulations of oceanic waves is discussed. It is emphasized that this problem is crucial for the deterministic description of waves, and also for the dynamical…

In a series of axisymmetric core-collapse supernova simulations extending up to $\sim 2\,\mathrm{s}$, we identify a regime of pre-collapse central rotation rates ($\sim 1\,\mathrm{Hz}$) that greatly enhances the emission of gravitational…

Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…

We investigate the statistics of rogue waves occurring in the inverse cascade of surface gravity wave turbulence. In such statistically homogeneous, stationary and isotropic wave fields, low-frequency waves are generated by nonlinear…

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…