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Periodic traveling waves are numerically computed in a constant vorticity flow subject to the force of gravity. The Stokes wave problem is formulated via a conformal mapping as a nonlinear pseudo-differential equation, involving a periodic…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2018-02-22 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur

The theory of similarity for wind-driven seas is applied to the physical analysis of the problem of sea state bias (SSB) in altimetry measurements. Dimensionless wave steepness and pseudo-age derived from altimetry measurements are expected…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2019-12-06 Sergei I. Badulin , Vika G. Grigorieva , Pavel A. Shabanov , Vitali D. Sharmar , Ilya O. Karpov

Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2026-01-27 Ina Teutsch , Saulo Mendes , Jerome Kasparian

Being able to image active regions on the Sun's far side is useful for modeling the global-scale magnetic field around the Sun, and for predicting the arrival of major active regions that rotate around the limb onto the near side.…

太阳与恒星天体物理 · 物理学 2020-01-08 Junwei Zhao , Dominick Hing , Ruizhu Chen , Shea Hess Webber

Refraction of a Longuet-Higgins Gaussian sea by random ocean currents creates persistent local variations in average energy and wave action. These variations take the form of lumps or streaks, and they explicitly survive dispersion over…

混沌动力学 · 物理学 2009-01-06 E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan , A. Dahlen

The standing surface waves in a rectangular vertically oscillating vessel filled with water (Faraday waves) in the presence of a floating elastic sheet are studied experimentally and theoretically. The threshold amplitude of the instability…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2023-07-11 Vahideh Sardari , Leila Bahmani , Maniya Maleki

Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2020-10-02 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

In this work we present a further analytical development and a numerical implementation of the recently suggested theoretical model for highly nonlinear potential long-crested water waves, where weak three-dimensional effects are included…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban , Juergen Dreher

A~machine learning framework is developed to estimate ocean-wave conditions. By supervised training of machine learning models on many thousands of iterations of a physics-based wave model, accurate representations of significant wave…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2017-09-27 Scott C. James , Yushan Zhang , Fearghal O'Donncha

This paper presents a survey of ocean simulation and rendering methods in computer graphics. To model and animate the ocean's surface, these methods mainly rely on two main approaches: on the one hand, those which approximate ocean dynamics…

In situ and remotely sensed observations have potential to facilitate data-driven predictive models for oceanography. A suite of machine learning models, including regression, decision tree and deep learning approaches were developed to…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2020-06-24 Stefan Wolff , Fearghal O'Donncha , Bei Chen

We construct three-dimensional families of small-amplitude gravity-driven rotational steady water waves on finite depth. The solutions contain counter-currents and multiple crests in each minimal period. Each such wave generically is a…

偏微分方程分析 · 数学 2016-09-12 Mats Ehrnström , Erik Wahlén

Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2024-04-01 Saulo Mendes

The general equations of motion for ocean dynamics are presented and the waves supported by the (inviscid, unforced) linearized system with respect to a state of rest are derived. The linearized dynamics sustains one zero frequency mode…

物理教育 · 物理学 2007-05-23 F. J. Beron-Vera

In this paper, we propose a new method to forecast the drift of objects in near coastal ocean on a period of several weeks. The proposed approach consists in estimating the probability of events linked to the drift using Monte Carlo…

数值分析 · 数学 2007-05-23 Pierre Ailliot , Emmanuel Frenod , Valerie Monbet

The occurrence of extreme (rogue) waves in the ocean is for the most part still shrouded in mystery, as the rare nature of these events makes them difficult to analyze with traditional methods. Modern data mining and machine learning…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2021-08-13 Dion Häfner , Johannes Gemmrich , Markus Jochum

Critical evaluation and understanding of ship responses in the ocean is important for not only the design and engineering of future platforms but also the operation and safety of those that are currently deployed. Simulations or experiments…

机器学习 · 计算机科学 2023-01-25 Kevin M. Silva , Kevin J. Maki

A large class of two-dimensional free-surface hydrodynamical systems is determined that can be self-consistently reduced by the condition that the velocity profile has a constant shear. The reduced systems turn out to be Hamiltonian, and so…

可精确求解与可积系统 · 物理学 2007-05-23 Boris Kupershmidt

The time-space evolution of the field is described by the transport equation for the 2-dimensional wave energy spectrum density, S(x,t), spread in the space, x, and time, t. This equation has the forcing named the source function, F,…

大气与海洋物理 · 物理学 2015-05-20 Vladislav Polnikov

A spectrogram is a useful way of using short-time discrete Fourier transforms to visualise surface height measurements taken of ship wakes in real world conditions. For a steadily moving ship that leaves behind small-amplitude waves, the…

流体动力学 · 物理学 2016-12-21 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Scott W. McCue , Timothy J. Moroney