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Internal waves propagate obliquely through a stratified fluid with an angle that is fixed with respect to gravity. Upon reflection on a sloping bed, striking phenomena are expected to occur close to the slope. We present here laboratory…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2009-11-11 Louis Gostiaux , Thierry Dauxois , Henri Didelle , Joel Sommeria , Samuel Viboud

We study the propagation in three dimensions of internal waves using ray tracing methods and traditional dynamical systems theory. The wave propagation on a cone that generalizes the Saint Andrew's cross justifies the introduction of an…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-02-10 Grimaud Pillet , Leo Maas , Thierry Dauxois

The flow above idealized, two-dimensional series of parallelepipedal buildings is examined with the aim of investigating how the building width to height aspect ratio affects the turbulence in the roughness sublayer and the ventilation of…

The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-03-30 Tomas Torsvik , Ahmed Abdalazeez , Denys Dutykh , Petr Denissenko , Ira Didenkulova

A simple analytical/numerical model has been developed for computing the evolution, over periods of up to a few hours, of the current and temperature profile in the upper layer of the ocean. The model is based upon conservation laws for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Alastair D. Jenkins , Brian Ward

A neutral boundary layer was generated in the laboratory to analyze the mean velocity field and the turbulence field within and above an array of two-dimensional obstacles simulating an urban canopy. Different geometrical configurations…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-01-28 Annalisa Di Bernardino , Paolo Monti , Giovanni Leuzzi , Giorgio Querzoli

As is well known, the sound-speed profile has significant effects on underwater acoustic sound propagation. These effects can be quantified by normal-mode models, for example. The basic case is a laterally homogeneous medium, for which the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-04-11 Sven Ivansson

We investigate the performance of fully convolutional networks to simulate the motion and interaction of surface waves in open and closed complex geometries. We focus on a U-Net architecture and analyse how well it generalises to geometric…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2020-12-02 Mario Lino , Chris Cantwell , Stathi Fotiadis , Eduardo Pignatelli , Anil Bharath

Rough rocky seabeds dominate world's coastlines, making accurate modeling of wave transformation in such environments essential for understanding coastal processes and hazards. Wave breaking and friction are critical drivers of wave…

The work highlights the importance of directional spreading effects on wave overtopping estimation in shallow and mild sloping foreshores. Wave short-crestedness leads, in general, to a reduction of mean overtopping discharges on coastal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-12 Corrado Altomare , Tomohiro Suzuki , Toon Verwaest

The refraction of surface gravity waves by currents leads to spatial modulations in the wave field and, in particular, in the significant wave height. We examine this phenomenon in the case of waves scattered by a localised current feature,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-13 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , William R. Young , Jacques Vanneste

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Anna Kokorina , Efim Pelinovsky

This paper presents an experimental, numerical and analytical study of the effect of open roof on acoustic propagation along a 3D urban canyon. The experimental study is led by means of a street scale model. The numerical results are…

Classical Physics · Physics 2009-07-06 Olivier Richoux , Ayrault Christophe , Adrien Pelat , Simon Félix , Bertrand Lihoreau

We employ multiple-scale analysis to systematically derive analytical approximations describing the cosmological propagation of gravitational waves beyond general relativity, in a framework with two interacting spin-2 fields with…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2025-11-25 Marco de Cesare , Mairi Sakellariadou , Benjamin Sutton

The reflection and transmission amplitudes of waves in disordered multimode waveguides are studied by means of numerical simulations based on the invariant embedding equations. In particular, we analyze the influence of surface-type…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2009-10-31 J. A. Sanchez-Gil , V. Freilikher , A. A. Maradudin , I. Yurkevich

An experimental validation of theoretical models of transmission of regular water waves by large arrays of floating disks is presented. The experiments are conducted in a wave basin. The models are based on combined potential-flow and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-03-18 Luke Bennetts , Timothy Williams

We study the diffusion of ocean waves by ice bodies much smaller than a wavelength, such as pancakes and small ice floes. We argue that inhomogeneities in the ice cover at scales comparable to that of the wavelength significantly increase…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-04-05 Piero Olla , Giacomo De Carolis , Francesca De Santi

Experiments on 2D random water wave propagation in a large wave tank are analyzed when the effect of dispersion changes. A stereoscopic profilometry technique is used to measure the water surface displacement resolved in both time and space…

Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-03-05 Lloyd Dafydd , Richard Porter

A dispersion relation for gravity waves in water covered by disk-like impurities embedded in a viscous matrix is derived. The macroscopic equations are obtained by ensemble-averaging the fluid equations at the disk scale in the asymptotic…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-02-20 Francesca De Santi , Piero Olla