Related papers: Understanding the tsunami with a simple model

Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…

Many supervised machine learning methods have revolutionised the empirical modelling of complex systems. These empirical models, however, are usually "black boxes" and provide only limited physical explanations about the underlying systems.…

The propagation of water waves of finite depth and flat bottom is studied in the case when the depth is not small in comparison to the wavelength. This propagation regime is complementary to the long-wave regime described by the famous KdV…

We investigate the behavior of a one-dimensional diatomic fluid under a shock wave excitation. We find that the properties of the resulting shock wave are in striking contrast with those predicted by hydrodynamic and kinetic approaches,…

Analysing the impact of bottom friction on shallow water waves over bottom terrains is important in areas including environmental and coastal engineering as well as the oceanic and atmospheric sciences. However, current theoretical…

The Whitham Broer Kaup (WBK) equations provide a fundamental framework for modeling shallow water wave dynamics, effectively capturing both nonlinear and dispersive effects. In this study, we construct a new class of analytical and…

We develop a theory of turbulence of weak random gravity waves on surface of deep water in which the main nonlinear process at high-frequency part of the spectrum is a nonlocal interaction with a strong low-frequency component. The latter…

The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…

Strong discontinuities in solutions of the gas dynamic equations under isentropic conditions, i.e., with continuity of entropy at the discontinuity, are examined. Solutions for a standard shock wave with continuity of energy at the…

The response of a semi-infinite ocean to a slowly travelling atmospheric perturbation crossing the coast provides a simple example of the breakdown of nearly geostrophic balance induced by a boundary. We examine this response in the linear…

The aim of this paper is to study, via theoretical analysis and numerical simulations, the dynamics of Whitham and related equations. In particular we establish rigorous bounds between solutions of the Whitham and KdV equations and provide…

We consider a control system describing the interaction of water waves with a partially immersed rigid body constraint to move only in the vertical direction. The fluid is modeled by the shallow water equations. The control signal is a…

We perform full-scale numerical simulation of instability of weakly nonlinear waves on the surface of deep fluid. We show that the instability development leads to chaotization and formation of wave turbulence. We study instability both of…

We present an analytical stability theory for the onset of the Faraday instability, applying over a wide frequency range between shallow water gravity and deep water capillary waves. For sufficiently thin fluid layers the surface is…

A phenomenological model of parametric surface waves (Faraday waves) is introduced in the limit of small viscous dissipation that accounts for the coupling between surface motion and slowly varying streaming and large scale flows (mean…

Saltwater intrusion is a critical challenge to coastal ecosystems, impacting freshwater resources, biogeochemical cycles, and habitat stability. While relevant studies often focus on the long-term trends of salinity, its episodic…

Many new models of wave turbulence -- frozen, mesoscopic, laminated, decaying, sand-pile, etc. -- have been developed in the last decade aiming to solve problems seemingly not solvable in the framework of the existing wave turbulence theory…

The generation of a tsunami wave by an aerial landslide is investigated through model laboratory experiments. We examine the collapse of an initially dry column of grains into a shallow water layer and the subsequent generation of waves.…

We study wave turbulence in shallow water flows in numerical simulations using two different approximations: the shallow water model, and the Boussinesq model with weak dispersion. The equations for both models were solved using periodic…

Employing a linear shallow water equation (LSWE) model in the spherical coordinates, this paper investigates the tsunami waves generated by the atmospheric pressure shock waves due to the explosion of the submarine volcano Hunga Tonga-Hunga…