Related papers: Understanding the tsunami with a simple model
We construct the solution of the Riemann problem for the shallow water equations with discontinuous topography. The system under consideration is non-strictly hyperbolic and does not admit a fully conservative form, and we establish the…
We derive rigorously from the water waves equations new irrotational shallow water models for the propagation of surface waves in the case of uneven topography in horizontal dimensions one and two. The systems are made to capture the…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
The structure of discrete resonances in water-wave turbulence is studied. It is shown that the number of exact 4-wave resonances is huge (hundreds million) even in comparatively small spectral domain when both scale and angle energy…
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not…
Internal waves describe the (linear) response of an incompressible stably stratified fluid to small perturbations. The inclination of their group velocity with respect to the vertical is completely determined by their frequency. Therefore…
Should it be a pebble hitting water surface or an explosion taking place underwater, concentric surface waves inevitably propagate. Except for possibly early times of the impact, finite amplitude concentric water waves emerge from a balance…
Usual inversion for earthquake source parameters from tsunami wave data incorporates subjective elements. Noisy and possibly insufficient data also results in instability and non-uniqueness in most deterministic inversions. Here we employ…
In this paper we show a structural stability result for water waves. The main motivation for this result is that we would like to exhibit a water wave whose interface starts as a graph and ends in a splash. Numerical simulations lead to an…
The majority of coastal flows are characterized by turbulence, rendering the application of shallow water equations an inadequate approach for their accurate description. This paper presents a theory for characterizing accelerated coastal…
In this work, we study the generalized shallow water wave equation to obtain novel solitary wave solutions. The application of this non-linear model can be found in tidal waves, weather simulations, tsunami prediction, river and irrigation…
In this study we investigate shallow turbidity density currents and underflows from mechanical point of view. We propose a simple hyperbolic model for such flows. On one hand, our model is based on very basic conservation principles. On the…
We report an experimental investigation of the effect of finite depth on the statistical properties of wave turbulence at the surface of water in the gravity-capillary range. We tune the wave dispersion and the level of nonlinearity by…
The model we deal with is the mathematical model for mutually penetrating continua one of which is the carrying medium obeying the wave equation whereas the other one is the oscillating inclusion described by the equation for oscillators.…
We consider the propagation of a shock wave (SW) in the damped Toda lattice. The SW is a moving boundary between two semi-infinite lattice domains with different densities. A steadily moving SW may exist if the damping in the lattice is…
Tropical cyclones are one of the most powerful and destructive natural phenomena on earth. Tropical storms and heavy rains can cause floods, which lead to human lives and economic loss. Devastating winds accompanying cyclones heavily affect…
The interaction of a solitary wave and a slowly varying mean background or flow for the Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations is studied using Whitham modulation theory. The exact form of the three SGN-Whitham modulation equations -- two for…
We review various methods for the analysis of initial-value problems for integrable dispersive equations in the weak-dispersion or semiclassical regime. Some methods are sufficiently powerful to rigorously explain the generation of…
A family of Camassa-Holm type equations with a linear term and cubic and quartic nonlinearities is considered. Local well-posedness results are established via Kato's approach. Conserved quantities for the equation are determined and from…
We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…