Related papers: Understanding the tsunami with a simple model
We consider a mechanism of generation of huge waves by multi-soliton resonant interactions. A non-stationary wave amplification phenomenon is found in some exact solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation. The mechanism proposed…
The weakly nonlinear dynamics of the free surface of a dielectric liquid in an electric field directed tangentially to the unperturbed boundary is investigated numerically. Within the framework of the strong field model, when the effects of…
The diffusive viscous wave equation describes wave propagation in diffusive and viscous media. Examples include seismic waves traveling through the Earth's crust, taking into account of both the elastic properties of rocks and the…
We perform a laboratory-scale experiment of submarine avalanches on a rough inclined plane. A sediment layer is prepared and thereafter tilted up to an angle lower than the spontaneous avalanche angle. The sediment is scrapped until an…
Humans gain an implicit understanding of physical laws through observing and interacting with the world. Endowing an autonomous agent with an understanding of physical laws through experience and observation is seldom practical: we should…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…
Small islands in the vicinity of the mainland are believed to offer protection from wind and waves and thus coastal communities have been developed in these areas. However, what happens when it comes to tsunamis is not clear. Will these…
We study modulational stability and instability in the Whitham equation, combining the dispersion relation of water waves and a nonlinearity of the shallow water equations, and modified to permit the effects of surface tension and constant…
We use physics-informed neural networks for solving the shallow-water equations for tsunami modeling. Physics-informed neural networks are an optimization based approach for solving differential equations that is completely meshless. This…
Shallow water waves are a striking example of nonlinear hydrodynamics, giving rise to phenomena such as tsunamis and undular waves. These dynamics are typically studied in hundreds-of-meter-long wave flumes. Here, we demonstrate a…
A wave equation for a time-dependent perturbation about the steady shallow-water solution emulates the metric an acoustic white hole, even upon the incorporation of nonlinearity in the lowest order. A standing wave in the sub-critical…
We present a novel meshless tsunami propagation and inundation model. We discretize the nonlinear shallow-water equations using a well-balanced scheme relying on radial basis function based finite differences. The inundation model relies on…
In this paper, we consider the Kakutani-Matsuuchi model which describes the surface elevation of the water-waves under the effect of viscosity. We show wave breaking for the Kakutani-Matsuuchi model, namely, the solution remains bounded but…
The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…
In this paper we use the short-wavelength instability approach to derive an instability threshold for exact trapped equatorial waves propagating eastwards in the presence of an underlying current.
We study water waves propagating over a smooth obstacle in a fluid of varying depth, motivated by the observation that submerged islands in the ocean act as effective lenses that increase the amplitude and destructive power of tsunami waves…
Experiments on 2D random water wave propagation in a large wave tank are analyzed when the effect of dispersion changes. A stereoscopic profilometry technique is used to measure the water surface displacement resolved in both time and space…
We study the two-dimensional problem of propagation of linear water waves in deep water in the presence of a submerged body. Under some geometrical requirements, we derive an explicit bound for the solution depending on the domain and the…
We study the behavior of shallow water waves over periodically-varying bathymetry, based on the first-order hyperbolic Saint-Venant equations. Although solutions of this system are known to generally exhibit wave breaking, numerical…