Related papers: Understanding the tsunami with a simple model
In this Letter, we experimentally investigate the collapse of initially dry granular media into water and the subsequent impulse waves. We systematically characterize the influence of the slope angle and the granular material on the initial…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
We discuss the following inverse problem: given the run-up data of a tsunami wave, can we recover its initial shape? We study this problem within the framework of the non-linear shallow water equations, a model widely used to study tsunami…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
In order to improve the frequency dispersion effects of irrotational shallow water models in coastal oceanography, several full dispersion versions of classical models were formally derived in the literature. The idea, coming from G.…
In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…
In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…
Effects of wave-wave interactions on ocean swell are studied. Results of extensive simulations of swell evolution within the duration-limited setup for the kinetic Hasselmann equation at long times up to $10^6$ seconds are presented. Basic…
Instead of taking the usual passive view for warning of near shore surging waves including extreme waves like tsunamis, we aim to study the possibility of intervening and controlling nonlinear surface waves through the feedback boundary…
The ability to measure, predict, and compute tsunami flow velocities is of importance in risk assessment and hazard mitigation. Substantial damage can be done by high velocity flows, particularly in harbors and bays, even when the wave…
The Whitham equation is a nonlocal, nonlinear partial differential equation that models the temporal evolution of spatial profiles of surface displacement of water waves. However, many laboratory and field measurements record time series at…
We examine the applicability of the weak wave turbulence theory in explaining experimental scaling results obtained for the diffusion and relative diffusion of particles moving on turbulent surface waves. For capillary waves our theoretical…
Seismically generated sound waves that propagate through the ocean are used to infer temperature anomalies and their vertical structure in the deep East Indian Ocean. These T waves are generated by earthquakes off Sumatra and received by…
A plethora of studies in the past decade describe tsunami hazards and study their evolution from the source to the target coastline, but mainly focus on coastal inundation and maximum runup. Nonetheless, anecdotal reports from eyewitnesses,…
Here to represent the propagation of waves I attempted to describe them separately in space and time domains. The time and space wave equations are obtained and investigated, and formulas for the wave propagation are expressed. I also tried…
A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…
We consider the propagation of surface water waves in a straight planar channel perturbed at the bottom by several thin curved tunnels and wells. We propose a method to construct non reflecting underwater topographies of this type at an…
The derivation of the equation of one-dimensional movement of a solitary shock wave is given. This derivation shows, that the differential equation of movement of a solitary plane shock wave in the channel with variable area, is exact, if…
For any kind of wave phenomenon one can find ways to derive the respective dispersion relation from experimental observations and measurements. This dispersion relation determines the structure of the wave equation and thus characterizes…
In classical continuum physics, a wave is a mechanical disturbance. Whether the disturbance is stationary or traveling and whether it is caused by the motion of atoms and molecules or the vibration of a lattice structure, a wave can be…